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Rocker C front turn signal relocation wiring

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  #11  
Old 04-30-2014 | 11:07 PM
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The wires off my new lights were long so I didn't have an issue. Are you thinking of running separate lights for the turn signals and running lights? This kit doesn't do that, it makes the turn signals always on so they are the running lights.
 
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2014 | 11:13 PM
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one more question… I found some clamps that have a 5/16" non-threaded holes or 5/16"-24 bolts and nuts, if I use the stock turn signal housing do you know if I need bolts?
 
  #13  
Old 04-30-2014 | 11:18 PM
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dont need no clamps mang
dont cut wires either do what 24 vltz said

heres og thread LOL
 
  #14  
Old 04-30-2014 | 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by UT-rckr
The wires off my new lights were long so I didn't have an issue. Are you thinking of running separate lights for the turn signals and running lights? This kit doesn't do that, it makes the turn signals always on so they are the running lights.
Cool picture...

No, Im gonna use the stock lights as running/turn signals, just change the bulb for the custom dynamics LEDs inserts… but after I cut the stock lights I will only have a few inches…and I don't know if the controller from kuryakyn has a long wire...
 
  #15  
Old 04-30-2014 | 11:25 PM
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  #16  
Old 04-30-2014 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by m i k e
Thanks MIKE… perfect info and pictures…Ill try this location…before I get a clamp.

Now back to the wiring…I don't get what you and 24v are saying…sorry.

If I buy this controller http://www.kuryakyn.com/Products/870...urn-Controller, then look for the plug under the tank, unplug it and plug this controller, then solder the wires from the controller to stock turn signals wires…

I still have to cut the turn signal wire that comes out of the switch housing on the handle bar to the turn signal… I think we are on the same page…you and 24v are saying not to cut the wire going into the handler bars before it get to the switch housing..correct?
 

Last edited by HDFan0611; 05-01-2014 at 12:52 AM.
  #17  
Old 04-30-2014 | 11:53 PM
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MIKE…by the way…what are those holes for on the Rocker… or just a good location for the signals? LOL
 
  #18  
Old 05-01-2014 | 12:22 AM
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MIKE… do you have a part number for the smoke lenses?

I found these.. http://www.dragspecialties.com/produ...oductId=184767
 
  #19  
Old 05-01-2014 | 09:35 AM
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24v & mike are telling you not to cut the wires, and I strongly agree. Nothing looks more half-assed IMHO than cut wires because the extra time to complete it to detail wasn't used.

When you remove the clip from the main harness under the right side of the tank, you can remove the pins from the connector. Basically, there is a secondary lock on the back of the clip that flips up. Then, you can use a paperclip that has been filed/cut to have a point on the end of it. Slide this down the top of the pins, lift the primary lock, and slide the pins out the back.

If you don't have a service manual, you can write down the pin locations so you put them back in the correct spot. Each slot in the connector is numbered.

The only time you should be cutting wires, again IMHO, is when you have too much wire and you shorten them. And at that point, you ought to be installing new pins on the ends of the wires too.

Details, details details....that's what always makes a bike stand out.
 
  #20  
Old 05-01-2014 | 10:52 AM
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I agree about not half assing stuff, and if you are using stock lights, pulling the wires through will give you enough length that you won't have to splice in a section from the new kury controller to the lights, which you will have to do if you just cut them at the switch housing. Since I ran new lights, I didn't care about that, and since the wires I cut were pushed back inside the switch housing (and aren't hooked up so there is no chance to short) you can't see anything so it doesn't look half assed. I also wasn't sure if the signal wires were wrapped with the other wires in the handlebars and how hard it would be to pull them out. If you want to do what others here are suggesting and pull the pins then you can wire them up without buying the kury part, just as they are currently.
 


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