oh hell... you're way out there. might be closer to my lakehouse than austin. (have a place on what used to be lake buchanan - its now just a big hole). love the drive up 1431 towards marble falls... hoping to find a weekend with good weather to head out there.


and yeah... please lose the reflectors.

 

I thought I stated very clearly that I have the Stage 4 Racing kit which includes the CNC ported heads, stiffer valve springs, etc. And yes, 10.5 to 1 FORGED pistons. NO displacement change - the Stage 4 Race kit is far stronger than the 110 cu.in. CVO engine (115 rwhp versus 80 rwhp), and also revs higher (6200 vs 6000).

Jim G

 

A good friend of mine also runs the SE stage 4 racing kit in a Dyna. I run just the normal stage 3 SE kit, one that comes without the heads, clutch, larger TB, fuel injectors etc that's in stage 4. We can go run after run and stay side by side. He weighs 40lbs more, and my probably not even 100hp puts his to shame. Torque in usable lower RPM range, and the gross weight of you and the bike is where the difference is made. In reality you're only really getting ahead of the average crowd if you're making at least 130 and up. Stage 3 and 4 etc is so close in real life it's not funny. Even stage two doesn't fall that far behind stage 3. I literally steer clear of telling people what I got as stage 3 and 4's really aren't that fast. I wouldn't get caught up in the hp number world. Just enjoy what you got

 

Everyone is entitled to his opinion. I try to base my opinions on publsihed dyno charts from reputable sources, and on actual findings by experienced and qualified bike testers, not by "buddies" or vendors with axes to grind, or other riders who are envious.

I agree it takes a knoweldgeable rider to actually use a Stage 4 race kit properly, since the differences in torque, and thus power, are small at rpm below say 3000, but huge at high rpm. Most regular "street riders" simply don't know how to properly access the power in a higher rpm engine. I laugh when I see 600 to 1000 cc superbikes like Ducatis, Hondas, and Yamahas being ridden on the street, ebcause THOSE bikes make almost no power at normal street rpm, and have to be wound to 8000 to 12,000 rpm to make decent power. Their inexperienced riders lose a lot of races to riders with bikes that have less power but operate at lower rpm and are thus much more easily ridden in a street race.

Jim G

 

I like my 110 torque at 2000 rpm's but I really feel it between 3500 and 4500 where I have 122 # of torque. Nothing like riding a quick bike....so much fun to ride.

+1 on losing the reflectors

 

I can't wait to see what mine's going to do, especially after I get this 50mm TB installed and the power vision and autotune..

 

You will be happy, thats for sure.

I do think people get too caught up in numbers though. I wasn't chasing #'s when I did mine, I trusted the combo that my local Indy gave me and the #'s happen to prove it out. I just wish I had a 2:1 to go with it before I got it tuned because I get a little dip about 3000 rpm, then it shoots up to 122 at 3500. I can tell ya this, its an awesome feeling that torque right off idle!

 

Wow dude what a gorgeous bike it is a really good thing when you find a good dealer that treats you right… whatever your horsepower/torque numbers come out to im sure it will be a whole lot of fun

 

Ok, guys, I hear you about the reflectors. HOW do I get them off safely without doing any damage to the paint??

Jim G

 

That dip in torque is so typical of true dual exhausts. I know of 2 remedies that actually work without accompanying detrimental effects:

- 2 into 1 exhaust, as you stated. I know it works from previous bikes.

- Dual exhaust but with a conenctor tube or connector chamber. I know this too works from my last bike, a Honda VTX 1800R, whose 2 cylinders are close in size to our HD engines. There, I had decent low end torque with the stocke exhaust (2 into 2 but with connector tube),had a big loss of low end torque with a true dual exhaust, and then got a HUGE gain when I switched to the Vance & Hines Staggered Big Shots which was a dual exhaust but with connector chamber.

Things that I DON'T think REALLY work:

- Really short true dual pipes (lots of noise but no power with the noise)

- "Torque cones" which to an inexperienced rider "seem" to work because they take out the dip at the specific rpm range and replace it with a loss of torque EVERYWHERE, so the rider thinks "the dip is gone!". Think about it: how can a major restriciton in the exhaust pipe, right by the exhaust valve, actually HELP?

Jim G

Jim G