Here is a better shot of the brake caliper mounted. The fender is sitting on here so I can figure out the wiring and maybe the fender struts.

 

So, here we go on the wiring… I have the rough routing done, everything soldered, cleaned and heat shrinked to correct length. Heat shrunk? Shrink? Freakin’ English… moving on… I plan on routing the wiring on the upper tube of the rear forks. Lower would have been less visible, but the wiring would be closer to the exhaust on the RH side, and I’m all about symmetry.
The harness lengths and routing established, I masked off the running surface of the powder coat, scuffed it up with 100 grit, wiped it off with solvent, and re-routed with zip-ties. Here comes the redneck side of me. Two part epoxy. Its low profile, handles temperature changes, and flexes a little more than the steel it’s attached to. Probably a few folks out there that just hit the red X in the upper right corner… sorry guys. At least its not duct tape.
What the pics dont show is how much wire is 'drip looped' inside the frame cavity to allow for proper clearances and travel, as well as cancel out fatiguing the wires, during the suspension cycling. One nice benefit of air suspension when while proto-typing something together.

 

Everything is bonded into place. This turned out better than I thought. I would have loved to route everything through the tubing, but that is a bit much for this project. A little outside my skill set. I need to watch more TV to learn how to do that stuff.

So, here are the two wire runs with two part epoxy encapsulating them into position. Two coats… one initial, and one final after the ‘first bond with zip ties’.. worked pretty good, cheap, and I can get to them in a worse case scenario. I painted the clear epoxy (after full cure and a wipe down with some solvent. The gloss black epoxy paint surprisingly made the wire routing for both signals and plate disappear pretty good. I’ll take it!
More wiring to do to be finalized out back. The last pic, they are painted. The glare might look like bare epoxy in the photo.
I'll say thank you to Tom H. for the suggestion on the paint. You rock, buddy! All hands effort here!

 

Here is the almost-finished product on the signals. The HD axle covers have a logo etched onto them before chroming, that gives an almost ‘reflector-like’ quality in a small circular pattern. Bonus.

 

The Ness Contoured chrome shift linkage showed up early. Funny, I was trying like crazy to figure out a heim and rod setup that would shorten down to 12.0" with no threads showing. Ta-da! They must have seen me coming. The shift linkage comes with the hardware and even a shot of loctite.
I was concerned about contacting parts during the up-shift travel, but plenty of clearance. Works perfect, and well made part.

 

I shortened up the rear fender struts a bit ago when I decided to loose the OEM rear signal locations. The last two holes on each side was no longer used, and at least on mine, there is an odd profile that was intended to accept the factory lights and plate mount… plugs for the holes wasn’t realistic for this. Out comes the hot work. I suck at TIG – still learning how to do it right. I’m convinced that experienced welders are freakin’ magicians. Fortunately for me, I just had to add material to give me something to shape/profile back down. No x-ray quality welding for me.
I smoothed up the trans shift arm while I was at it.

 

I rolled the dice on the finish… polish, powder coat or paint. I was gonna polish, but the amount of work and material removed to make it correct was more than I wanted to mess with. Powder coating is great, but it is usually a week turn-around, and I have the patience of a chiwawa on crack. Prep, prime and paint…
Heat and serve!

I gotta say that 'less is more' applies well here. It fits what I was after.

Oven for a couple of hours on 130F. I don't paint for a living... clearly. but it came out good enough to match the paint on the frame.

 

So here is the rear fender and struts as a module. With the wiring and the plate gone from the fender, the fender now becomes a 4 – bolt swap out affair. Why does this matter to me? I have been wrestling with the idea on a bobbed, hugger fender and a solo seat, but I wanted to take passengers on occasion. You guys already know why… J
With the fender quickly swappable, I can give a try at fabbing a strutless rear fender (seems like almost nobody makes a 14” mounting surface fender for me). The fenders would drop on and off as easy as 4 bolts, and I can do the other fender without downing my bike for the next who knows how long while I ruin a fender. Kinda cool benefit of the wire routing and signal relocation I did earlier.

 

The rest of the wiring was finished up. Two clamps are in place of the zip ties for the LH and RH wire runs to the rear. The controls and relay for the Legend Air Suspension, as well as the fuse are all tucked in.

 

I guess this is the gauge from the CVO? I just ordered it from Kutter Harley on the east coast. They pretty much provided most of the OEM stuff I added to the build. I should have gotten the one with two analog needles... but this thing is a 600 color adjustable disco machine. I'll just go with the blue back lights.