You need to mock up the motor to check deck height so you will know what head gasket thickness is needed to set squish at .030"-.035". If deck is way off, cylinders may need to be trimmed.

You need to know if the chamber volume of the cylinder heads and whether or not the heads have been decked. You should also be checking corrected compression and CCP with a reliable compression calculator like the one on the BigBoyz website. You will need the deck height and chamber volume as well as the piston dome volume and the intake valve close event timing to input the data into the calculator and see what compression and CCP is; actually this should have (maybe it has been) already been done in order to select the cams.

Witt .630" lift cams, I would also be checking valve to valve and valve to piston clearance as well as clearance in the cam chest to be sure there is sufficient clearance at the pinion bearing boss and the underside of the lifter galley.

There is a lot more than just bolting parts together when one is building a performance motor. It's time consuming and can be tedious but part of the process.

You expressed some conern about budget and reliability. If reliability/rideability and budget are genuine concerns, you might consider backing away from the 9G cams and take a look at something like S&S 570, TMan 590 or SM600 that would allow the use of OEM rocker arms; you know, take a bit more conservative approach. The drag pipes are counter productive to low and mid range power; if building a drag bike, OK but if looking for some lower and mid range power, you should consider a different exhaust. The open pipes will kill your power band.

In summary, no offense, but the build plan doesn't sound very well thought out; I hope you know what you are gettng and that the results will meet your expectations.

 

Thank you for your honesty, it is appreciated. In all honesty I was trying to do the best I could with the money I have. I still may have someone do it for me. It's always cheaper to do it right the first time right?

 

Well first is get a manual and then make her as clean as possible. I mean tooth brush scrubbin clean. I would start with the cam chest and see what I had for run out. You'll need a good dial indicator for this. I like gear drive cams just for the simplicity but your pinion shaft must be pretty strait(<.0035)but you have the hydraulic chain tensioners which are very good also and compensate for up to <007. While your there you might as well finish the cam chest with new Torrington bearings and clearance for your cam lift. After you get the new bearings in you can insert your cams individually and see where they hit which I'm sure they will with a .630 lift and then after cleaning all traces of oil from the cam chest tape off all the holes and get your die grinder out or if you know someone with a cam clearencing tool borrow it. This will be a start but you'll need to tool up with torque wrenches(Inch pounds and foot pounds) and others that you can read about in the manual. If you're still interested we can go from there. Also bag and tag your bolts to keep them separated. Raid the brides kitchen cabinets and get cookie sheets, cupcake pans, and Tupperware containers. And remember clean clean clean. It's all fun to know what's going on in your motor and the pride of knowing you did it and are bonded with it. By the way that's the same bike I'm doing my 107 kit on. Love the smooth ride and look.

 

Man you rock thanks.

 

I have a friend who has done this with an evo so that should help