@LA Dog
Just wanted to say thanks for the DIY "gear ratio" thread. Subscribed but nothing to add.
Would like a bigger rear spricket for the Slim, so I'll be keepin tabs on it

 

Thank you- does not totally match the wheels but the price was right! ;p

Glad you found it useful- i just posted more charts and data on page1 for each specific pulley upgrade, and a comparative chart of differences on page 3. Go get the sportster 68t pulley, pulley bolts and slap it right on. easy peasy.

 

Wow, thT easy? You're awesome brother. Thanks!

 

I started the retro build on my springer, with black nostalgia highway bars.




Old school highway bars. Here comes the retro build thread!

 

Tuesday I picked up my parts from the Powder Pro. They look great. Today I dropped them off at the dealer.

 

^^ Lookin nice!!

Yeh pretty much that's the gist of it. bolt on and go on. What year is your slim?

You will either be running a 20mm, 1" or 24mm (0.98") wide belt with 133t length. Any of those belts will work with the 2011-up XL1200 sportster 1" 68t pulley, with your stock 32t front pulley. Wheel hub size for the pulley, bolt size and bolt pattern, all same. Just buy the new matching sportster pulley bolts and set of washers at HD. part numbers in my thread on post #2

If you do this please add your pics, process, parts you bought, etc to the thread. that would be very cool. its not going to be a huge diff with the 68 but it will be some improvement and you'll notice it. you get the biggest diff changing the front pulley to a 30t. the 30t pulley is from a tri-glide and they are like $60.

32/68, 30/68, 30/70 pulley combos all fit with the stock 133t belt.

I did this during Xmas week - so still somewhat recent

I decided to mess around with creating "stealth" mini front turn signals using the newest type of ultra bright T10 LED bulbs found on amazon. I had an extra pair since I bought 4 of them for my Nissan Frontier. They are cheap and ridiculous bright.

Anyway, this took me a whole whopping 20 minutes to install (I had already removed the stock turn signals and tucked the wires back into the handlebars).

Parts needed: solder, 26 gauge wire scrap (about 16"), heat shrink, 3M automotive trim double stick tape, acrylic conformal coating. If you are removing your stock turn signals you'll need new bolts to hold the mirrors.

LED Bulbs used (comes as a pair for $11): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RYT02WQ
Acrylic Conformal Coating (use this to waterproof any electronics- seriously excellent stuff with many uses, $11): MG Chemicals 419C Acrylic Lacquer Conformal Coating, 55 ml Bottle, Clear: Epoxy Adhesives: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

The process is pretty easy. I first dipped the bulbs into the conformal coating and let them dry. I dip all of my led auto bulbs into that stuff and they never fail from moisture. this stuff makes them completely water proof. Use an alligator clip on a wire to dip bulbs- dip the entire bulb leds and all- the coating is clear. let it dry and scrape off any coating on the pin pads

Next, solder some thin wire scrap onto the left and right pads of the LED bulbs- each piece of wire should be about 4" long. thin flexible 24/26 ga silicon wire is best like the kind used on RC quadcopters. You can use all black wires because these bulbs can be hooked up any direction, there is no set + and - direction. You'll connect the wires from the bulbs to the black and purple stock wires, solder, use heat shrink to cover the connection, then tuck the wires back into the wire channels under the handlebar controls. It is very self explanatory once you look at it. Use 3M body trim tape to stick the bulbs up under the handlebar controls. done.

Summary: $22 in parts if you also buy the coating dip, and 30 mins to 1hr to complete (takes longer if you still have your stock turns installed).

These LEDs are extremely bright and highly visible even in full sun- they will shine forward and directly downward once mounted.

From normal distance the led turn signal bulbs are pretty invisible:


Closer shot of the mounting locations- they just stick underneath on the flat areas of the handlebar controls and these locations are adjacent to the wiring outlet channels


Brightness of turn signal in daytime- sorry my headlight is washing out the photo- I have an 80w LED bulb retrofitted into the stock housing and it is stupid bright.

 

Nice~

 

In case anyone here is interested, here's a link to my build thread:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...r-classic.html

Splatttttt ...I expect an endless stream of smart-*** comments. It keeps me going!

 

COOL! I was just looking at Slims last night with WWs and thinking of what emblem would look best on tank vs. the stocker. You guessed it!

That's awesome! I have never liked the handlebar mounted TSs on HDs and always want them on the forks. Now that I've seen this, it's almost better to have them up there when they need to be on as I think they are easier to see higher up for oncoming traffic. But they look so ugly in their stock form that I can never keep them there.

Depends on your bike too and if you have passing lamps but in the case of the Breakout, it looks perfect. Nice job!

 

^ Thanks! I love that it was $cheap$ too lol