Figured since I was going to swap out my exhaust anyways, it wouldn't hurt anything if I messed up, so I punched the baffles out of my stock pipes. I have seen several ways of doing it posted, but for me the best way was to just use brute force. Tool a 5' long rock bar and gave it a couple of whacks and the baffle popped easily, but hung on one side, flipped it around and pried it back to the middle, and they came right out. The bar is about 40 lbs and has a long taper, so I just ran the muffler over it a couple of times to smooth the bore back out.

Not sure what tune to use, so I chose the SE Slip On without baffle.

Sounds like a totally different bike. as soon as it dries up outside, I am going to give it a test ride.


EDITED TO ADD:

Took it out for a short ride. Road was still a little wet so I didn't jump on it hard, but enough to get a feel for how it is going to sound. At low RPM and low throttle, it is hard to tell it from stock, and cruise is similar as well. It is definitely louder, cut doesn't seem obnoxious unless I get hard on the throttle. Will have to wait for the weather to clear up to do a real test, but my initial impression is that it sounds good from the saddle (not sure what it sounds like to anyone else), and it doesn't seem to have hurt anything. In any case, those pipes are coming off soon and this was more out of curiosity than anything else..

 

Picked up a pair of pipes, so I went ahead and pulled the cored mufflers back off and hung them in the shed. Took 2 days to get everything mounted straight and tight, but finally finished installing the 4" Racing True Dual System from Freedom Performance. I picked them up used from Hoggparts, a local Harley salvage. They were pretty nasty looking, but only a few tiny rust spots, so I figured they would polish up. I was right. They aren't perfect, but they look really clean. It took a while to get them fitted just right, but finally got it. The left pipe is 1/2" farther from centerline of the tire than the right side is, but I couldn't get it any closer to the axle, and didn't want to push the right side farther out, so they are slightly off from side to side, but really not noticable if you aren't looking for it. All things considered, I think they came out well once everything was tightened up.

Oh, and they sound freaking awesome.

 

A lot of you know me, my bike, and how OCD I am about her. I've come across a huge dilemma. The rear DNA Fat 52 wheel has developed serious rusting issues with less than 8 months on the bike. Currently I'm in negotiations with DNA in regards to replacing the wheel. Along with this, Continental sent the 2 new tires to my Indy, only to find out they sent the wrong sized rear. Since I've changed the entire look of the bike, I've come across problem after problem. Once all issues have been resolved, I will be bringing my beloved Heritage Softail Classic back to her roots. The way she came off production line in 2005.
Get a load of the rust on this wheel. Before making any ill fated comments on how I keep up my bike, think twice. lol.



This is the motorcycle I fell in love with the day I saw her.

While I do love the look, it's not the bike I truly love.

Sorry, a bit off topic and a lil rant. But I'm bringing her back,

 

G'day 04FXDI.
Don't blame you, I'd be livered. Do you live near salt water? Even so 8 months is very annoying. Hope you get it right.
Chrome isn't what it used to be. I have bits that were done in the late 70's that still look great. Other bits done since 2000 are crap.
Cheers

 

Just wondering, do you use any 'anti-corrosion' products like ACF-50 ?

https://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html

thanks,

T.

 

I do live on coastline, but the chrome on my 17 year old OEM wheels have very little to no rust on them. I do agree with you, chrome isn't what it used to be, one thing I'll say about HD chrome, it's top notch.

 

Are you familiar with this?
22ple VM1 Extreme Rim and Metal Coating - 30 ml | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image

I've been detailing cars with my father since the late 70's, the new professional grade products out there are designed to protect our vehicles from situations like this. The rear DNA wheel was clearly not built like the front wheel, which has no rust at all. I would be more then willing to except the blame for negligence, but this is not the case. I had a problem with a DNA pulley pitting shortly after it was installed. The pulley was alco coated in 22PLE. The front wheel received the same treatment and is absolutely rust free. I've read issues regarding DNA in the past, I hoped that they solved those problems but I was mistaken.

 

2005 Heritage, OEM wheels.

 

I don’t blame you one bit bro…frustrating for sure to see things like this happening on our bikes. I have owned large radial spoked wheels in the past on my Deluxe and for me, never again. They look awesome when new but are just too much trouble IMHO. Mine didn’t rust but they were too d@mn hard to keep clean. Too many spokes and too tight of a space too keep clean and waxed. I want my bike to look good but I also want to ride it. My bikes are not show bikes…nothing wrong with that but its not what I want to do. Anyway, I think the 16s look better on these bikes anyway. Harley got it right and these Twin Cam era Heritage Softails are the best looking bikes that Harley has ever produced or will produce.

 

Nope, but I've never used ACF-50 either... A bunch of Sportster guys in the UK
give it high ratings. Granted, it does not claim to be good for 4-5 years though.

good luck,

T.