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Everything Breakout! Find out everything you need to know! Some topics include:
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
The Everything Breakout Thread
#5661
#5662
I bought a kit from DK Customs. Putting it together was easy.
I guess it works...the little filter is always a mess, lol ... glommed up with the crud that used to get sucked back through the engine. I blast that filter out with brake & parts cleaner whenever I do an oil change.
I guess it works...the little filter is always a mess, lol ... glommed up with the crud that used to get sucked back through the engine. I blast that filter out with brake & parts cleaner whenever I do an oil change.
#5663
#5664
#5665
Correction: My comparison was to the OEM Dunlop that came on my 2014 Breakout. I don't know what model of Dunlop that was - ie. whether it was the E3 model - I did not make a record of it and I cannot remember now. But, I do recall it weighed about what the Elite 3 weighs, because I posted about it at the time (You can probably find my post somewhere on either this Breakout thread or the overall Softail forum). I believe the Pirelli is superior for MY desires because of a combination of weight and profile, but mostly the weight.
Jim G
Jim G
#5666
#5667
hmm- now that is a damn interesting approach. First off, yes, it will fit. these vendors are freaking stupid with not listing FXSB fitment. All of the softail / dyna bikes from the fitment list use the **SAME** diameter fork tubes and the threading is same too.
My only concern would be structural integrity. I personally would feel more comfortable with 1 solid piece of metal for tubes - but this definitely has the high marks for convenience factor.
Seems easy enough: with bike on center stand and raised just enough to take weight off front wheel, loosen left and right top tree clamps. Then carefully remove tube top nuts (per my DIY steps).
Screw on the extensions (blue locktite on threads is a good idea), add preload spacers (pvc pipe works great as spacers too if you want to lengthen/add or shorten/reduce preload), add more fork oil so oil is back to same level from top (important), then tighten up the top tube nuts.
After that, raise bike front end off ground a couple of inches and loosen bottom tree clamps just enough to drop everything down flush with top tree. Make sure left and right tubes are equal level heights in the top tree within 1mm of each other.
then tighten top and bottom tree clamps per manual. Go for a nice Easy Rider / Renegade putt down the street, see how it handles.
No need to even remove the wheel- nice.
Keep a watchful eye out for stress cracks over the thread-together section.
My only concern would be structural integrity. I personally would feel more comfortable with 1 solid piece of metal for tubes - but this definitely has the high marks for convenience factor.
Seems easy enough: with bike on center stand and raised just enough to take weight off front wheel, loosen left and right top tree clamps. Then carefully remove tube top nuts (per my DIY steps).
Screw on the extensions (blue locktite on threads is a good idea), add preload spacers (pvc pipe works great as spacers too if you want to lengthen/add or shorten/reduce preload), add more fork oil so oil is back to same level from top (important), then tighten up the top tube nuts.
After that, raise bike front end off ground a couple of inches and loosen bottom tree clamps just enough to drop everything down flush with top tree. Make sure left and right tubes are equal level heights in the top tree within 1mm of each other.
then tighten top and bottom tree clamps per manual. Go for a nice Easy Rider / Renegade putt down the street, see how it handles.
No need to even remove the wheel- nice.
Keep a watchful eye out for stress cracks over the thread-together section.
#5668
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Great State of Canada
Posts: 6,171
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Solid stainless ?? That would be pretty robust. You can get solid aluminum ones,,, if you prefer. These are rock solid for me so far and our potholed Maritime roads are an excellent testing ground. I didn't use Loctite or anything on em. They utilize an "O"-ring seal which wouldn't like Loctite IMHO, and the seam is between the upper and lower pinch clamps plus the upper pinch clamp, by my calculations, probably squeezes on the top most inner couple of threads of the actual fork tubes. All in all these are quite confidence inspiring. Dennis Kirk certainly seems to be selling a few.
#5669
Cable kits for the '17 CVO Breakout
Hey guys, I am new to this forum. Good to know that there is a dedicated place for the breakout. I got a 2017 CVO Breakout about two months ago and am now planning to make some mods. Wanted to change the default drag bars to apes but am unable to find a suiting cable kit that would work. Checked with the dealer and LA Choppers, neither one has or know of anything that would work on a 14-16" handle bars.
Any pointers would be really helpful.
This is her btw.
Any pointers would be really helpful.
This is her btw.
#5670
Hey guys, I am new to this forum. Good to know that there is a dedicated place for the breakout. I got a 2017 CVO Breakout about two months ago and am now planning to make some mods. Wanted to change the default drag bars to apes but am unable to find a suiting cable kit that would work. Checked with the dealer and LA Choppers, neither one has or know of anything that would work on a 14-16" handle bar
Any pointers would be really helpful.
This is her btw.
Any pointers would be really helpful.
This is her btw.
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hchaturv (06-05-2017)