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Everything Breakout! Find out everything you need to know! Some topics include:
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
The Everything Breakout Thread
#5501
#5502
My opinion also comes from what I've read, and my experience when going from a 19" to 21" wheel on my Rocker. It only raised the front end 1" but there was a definite drop off in handling, especially at slower speeds. tphykitt didn't say if he plans on lowering the rear, but that would make the bike angle up even more, which wont look great, and the handling seemed to get worse when I lowered the rear, and it didn't improve until I dropped the front end 2" with a Progressive spring kit. I just think if he is wanting more of a chopper look, the best way to get it would be to change the rake with new trees and keep the bike more level, both for looks and handling. It will push the wheel/tire forward without raising the front end......
Mean Street Products makes really nice chopped front ends that are properly raked for most applications. I had one of their billet inverted fork setups on my Big Dog chopper and it was fantastic. http://www.viciouscycleworks.us/ccp8...ory/meanstreet
these are cool- but not cheap - especially in chrome or powdercoat black - anyway check out the different rake / length options:
http://www.viciouscycleworks.us/ccp8...z973wb58360c5w
Last edited by LA_Dog; 03-20-2017 at 10:17 AM.
#5503
,,,,but- if you are a DIY king fu bad @$$ and know WTF you are doing, and understand front suspension and already have done reasonable improvements like good tires, dampers, proper single rate springs, and are just going for more of the "Easy Rider" look with some tube extensions, then hell ya- go for it!! ,,,,
I should thank you again for that entire Forum section you developed for the FXSB fork modifications. I quite seriously can't think of a single mod I've done which had a better cost/benefit impact on my FXSB.
I'm gonna try the 2" extensions on top of the mods I've already done. They're $116.00 and probably install in minutes so if they prove to be a mistake, they won't be an enduring one,, . It takes me awhile to get around to doing things but I will be sure to report re the outcome with some more of my characteristically unflattering photo work,,, "effing iPhone 4S", .
#5504
With the exception of being a "DIY king fu bad @$$ and know WTF you are doing",, ,, Yes, I've done the Richor / Race tech spring mod already and just want the Peter fondue cheesy rider look. I've got the 120/70 tire in hand and it will go on this spring when I renew my E3 250 rear.
I should thank you again for that entire Forum section you developed for the FXSB fork modifications. I quite seriously can't think of a single mod I've done which had a better cost/benefit impact on my FXSB.
I'm gonna try the 2" extensions on top of the mods I've already done. They're $116.00 and probably install in minutes so if they prove to be a mistake, they won't be an enduring one,, . It takes me awhile to get around to doing things but I will be sure to report re the outcome with some more of my characteristically unflattering photo work,,, "effing iPhone 4S", .
I should thank you again for that entire Forum section you developed for the FXSB fork modifications. I quite seriously can't think of a single mod I've done which had a better cost/benefit impact on my FXSB.
I'm gonna try the 2" extensions on top of the mods I've already done. They're $116.00 and probably install in minutes so if they prove to be a mistake, they won't be an enduring one,, . It takes me awhile to get around to doing things but I will be sure to report re the outcome with some more of my characteristically unflattering photo work,,, "effing iPhone 4S", .
Can you post up a link to the extensions you are considering using? I'd like to see how those work- IIRC the fork tube uppers for FXDWG are not very expensive either.
I would totally agree- the front end upgrade is a huge bang for buck mod, and I was so happy that it was a realistically do-able, and relatively inexpensive easy process.
so is the belt pulley upgrade to 30t/68t or 30t/70t. major bang for buck and difference to the bike.
heck you could just do those two mods to the Breakout, give it a Stage1 and a tune, and enjoy a massively different and more enjoyable bike in terms of power and handling (and safety too). Both are a fantastic deal in terms of typical HD upgrade costs. matter of fact I would go as far to say that they are the first two upgrades anyone should do to their Breakout. These are IMO the foundation upgrades for this bike, and actually, all other 2007-up Dyna/Softail.
Last edited by LA_Dog; 03-20-2017 at 11:48 AM.
#5505
Of course they say these won't fit the BO but,,,, I sorta think they do .
.
#5507
https://www.denniskirk.com/cycle-vis...akout-fxsb.mmy
Of course they say these won't fit the BO but,,,, I sorta think they do .
.
Of course they say these won't fit the BO but,,,, I sorta think they do .
.
My only concern would be structural integrity. I personally would feel more comfortable with 1 solid piece of metal for tubes - but this definitely has the high marks for convenience factor.
Seems easy enough: with bike on center stand and raised just enough to take weight off front wheel, loosen left and right top tree clamps. Then carefully remove tube top nuts (per my DIY steps).
Screw on the extensions (blue locktite on threads is a good idea), add preload spacers (pvc pipe works great as spacers too if you want to lengthen/add or shorten/reduce preload), add more fork oil so oil is back to same level from top (important), then tighten up the top tube nuts.
After that, raise bike front end off ground a couple of inches and loosen bottom tree clamps just enough to drop everything down flush with top tree. Make sure left and right tubes are equal level heights in the top tree within 1mm of each other.
then tighten top and bottom tree clamps per manual. Go for a nice Easy Rider / Renegade putt down the street, see how it handles.
No need to even remove the wheel- nice.
Keep a watchful eye out for stress cracks over the thread-together section.
Last edited by LA_Dog; 03-20-2017 at 02:10 PM. Reason: correct unit of measurement
#5508
hmm- now that is a damn interesting approach. First off, yes, it will fit. these vendors are freaking stupid with not listing FXSB fitment. All of the softail / dyna bikes from the fitment list use the **SAME** diameter fork tubes and the threading is same too.
My only concern would be structural integrity. I personally would feel more comfortable with 1 solid piece of metal for tubes - but this definitely has the high marks for convenience factor.
Seems easy enough: with bike on center stand and raised just enough to take weight off front wheel, loosen left and right top tree clamps. Then carefully remove tube top nuts (per my DIY steps).
Screw on the extensions (blue locktite on threads is a good idea), add preload spacers (pvc pipe works great as spacers too if you want to lengthen/add or shorten/reduce preload), add more fork oil so oil is back to same level from top (important), then tighten up the top tube nuts.
After that, raise bike front end off ground a couple of inches and loosen bottom tree clamps just enough to drop everything down flush with top tree. Make sure left and right tubes are equal level heights in the top tree within 1mm of each other.
then tighten top and bottom tree clamps per manual. Go for a nice Easy Rider / Renegade putt down the street, see how it handles.
No need to even remove the wheel- nice.
Keep a watchful eye out for stress cracks over the thread-together section.
My only concern would be structural integrity. I personally would feel more comfortable with 1 solid piece of metal for tubes - but this definitely has the high marks for convenience factor.
Seems easy enough: with bike on center stand and raised just enough to take weight off front wheel, loosen left and right top tree clamps. Then carefully remove tube top nuts (per my DIY steps).
Screw on the extensions (blue locktite on threads is a good idea), add preload spacers (pvc pipe works great as spacers too if you want to lengthen/add or shorten/reduce preload), add more fork oil so oil is back to same level from top (important), then tighten up the top tube nuts.
After that, raise bike front end off ground a couple of inches and loosen bottom tree clamps just enough to drop everything down flush with top tree. Make sure left and right tubes are equal level heights in the top tree within 1mm of each other.
then tighten top and bottom tree clamps per manual. Go for a nice Easy Rider / Renegade putt down the street, see how it handles.
No need to even remove the wheel- nice.
Keep a watchful eye out for stress cracks over the thread-together section.
And, in the motorcycle industry, volumes are small on customizing products, which discourages decent proper testing, and too many products are "designed" by non-engineer enthusiasts with lots of zeal but no training or materials failure experience.
I don't think I would personally be willing to take the risks involved in a part like a threaded fork extension, unless the part came from HD itself, and even then, HD has shown some spectacularly poor engineering (e.g. the high wear camshaft chain tensioner, the ignition switch that falls off, etc).
Jim G
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LA_Dog (03-20-2017)
#5509
Yes on that note, HKMark23 it is awesome you are willing to test the extension parts but please be careful. Right along the lines of what Jim mentioned, it only takes buying a basic $1million E&O product liability policy to be able to come to market with something like this. It does not require even basic safety testing. Hence my comment about looking out for stress cracks (or even deformation) on the threaded area.
keep in mind that the top triple clamp provides structural support and rigidity for the stock fork tube top thread area. that support is no longer present once the threaded area is dropped below the top triple and sitting in free space.
My personal weigh-in, I would not use it on my bike. But I do like the convenience factor of it.
keep in mind that the top triple clamp provides structural support and rigidity for the stock fork tube top thread area. that support is no longer present once the threaded area is dropped below the top triple and sitting in free space.
My personal weigh-in, I would not use it on my bike. But I do like the convenience factor of it.
#5510
I appreciate your concerns LA & Jim. I have them too. During my research, (shopping ), I found no less than 3 outfits that make a version of these, one was European and they styled theirs in the form of an extended "cap", complete with integrated nut. No-one I found makes an "extension" longer than 2 " so installed the joint will be perhaps an inch below the upper pinch bolt. I found this interesting and, right or wrong, I take some degree of design confidence away from that fact.