Yes, that is what I am looking for. I see that they list the breakout as being compatible, but I wonder about that since we have that unique setup where we have running lights, brake lights, and signals all in each side-mounted light housing. But you have actually installed them and they do perform all 3 functions?


EDIT: Oops! I just noticed you are in Canada, where our twin sidelight rera lamps are illegal, so you have a conventional center rear light plus separate signal lamps. This setup would likely NOT work on our U.S. configuration.

Jim G

 

I was unaware of that difference sorry.

I do have a conventional bulb in the center brake / tail light unit and I did not need to install any sort of "resistor" you hear about as they are integrated into these LED units. Also, the J&P Cycle website, I'm assuming, wouldn't differentiate between Canadian or US delivered BO's. I don't mean to pitch the things but they were a particularly easy solution for me.

OH !! If you do end up going with these, know that you should be careful to seat the LED disc into the housing, after engaging the bayonet connection, with wires coiled in a way so that the disc is not hung up or cockeyed. It is easy to install these and then reinstall the lens cap without realizing the disc is interfering with one of the integrated lens cap retainers. If you do this, everything will go together well and look OK but you'll loose your lens cap later on when it finally pops out,, somewhere,,, on the highway. This is easy to avoid so long as you know about it.

 

Hey, thanks for trying! The only reason I am aware of the difference between the U.S. and Canadian Breakouts is that my wife and I are planning to import the Breakout into Canada when we move there after she joins me in retirement ("Trophy wife" younger than me, so not yet retired like I am). So, I had to research all the changes required to meet the Canadian safety standards, which differ from the U.S. ones.

Jim G

 

Not sure about 10' feet away but the manual shows how to properly adjust headlight at 25' away from a wall on a level surface. I believe the drop calls for 2.1" of center of beam (brightest spot of light) at 25'.

 

the "quick and dirty" fix is to loosen the up/down pivot nut so the headlamp housing is snug, won't move on its own at all, but you can still move it with your hand.
then go for a ride at night, preferably a dark flat straight road, turn on high beam and push headlight forward, pull it back until it's right. then after you park tighten the nut and done. BTW I leave mine tight but I can still push it or pull it with a firm hand if needed. I do this on both of my bikes.

 

Yes, but at what height?

I'll go with your fix LA Dog. The cops here are clueless anyway, so as long as my field of view is better at high beam, that's all that matters.

 

This approach also enables you to change the setting if you need to carry a passenger at night, as putting a passenger on the seat lowers the rear of the bike enough that if you have truly adjusted the beam for optimal road lighting, it will be too high with the passenger on board.

Back when we rode Nortons, which weighed under 450 lb, and were significantly affected by a passenger's weight, this is what we did.

Jim G

 

Passangers Jim?
What that? LOL

 

Jim, I used this Custom Dynamics for the rear and they work Great with all three functions, see link below:

 

Custom Dynamics look nice but they're expensive. I looked at the Ringz that come in black or chrome and include the lens and all leds but they're around $130 per pair or the inserts are around $90 a pair. I wasn't ready to spend that kind of money so I went to an autoparts store and bought some leds.






Plug right in and work great. They are a tight fit in the reflector housing as you push them in because the plastic above the base is just a bit wider than regular bulbs to start but they do fit. Probably not as bright and pretty as the Ringz but they're much brighter than regular bulbs. And you can switch front and rear for under $50.


Michael