Update on the Target Tune install and my end impression- Installing the module, wiring etc was all pretty straight forward. The kit seems well built and well engineered.

I ran into some operational issues with getting TT to work properly on the wide band O2 auto tuning. I would put it into Target Tune Wideband Auto Tune mode, go for a tuning ride, bike ran like a champ- fast, responsive, good pull. Afterwards I'd look at the tuning changes and it would read "0 changes" to VE. I was like wtf- I was getting hits on VE areas and it all seemed to be working as expected- but would not actually make changes. I would get out of auto tune mode, run the bike in normal operation with the DJ provided TT-enabled tune file, and bike ran like a dog. really flat, no power, exhaust smelled really lean. data logs showed a huge disparity in AFR ratios for front / rear cylinders and it was not following my AFR tables.

Did some back and forth with DJ via email, and some back and forth with FM / Jamie over in the PV information thread. DJ was not helpful at all -even though the issue was right under their nose with the data I gave them. Jamie's input was largely more helpful and during the course of discussing operation, the issue jumped out at me-

Turned out that one of the default settings in the PV for the AT operation was disabling it from making changes to the tune file. The "max et" value was set to 230f. meaning that if the engine is warmer than 230f then AT will ignore doing any further VE tuning- so that is going to be the entire ride!

Jamie suggested a reset of the PV's AT settings to default- so I did that - and it reset the max et value to 446f. Did another AT run and all good- finally! Ran the tuned map in normal operation mode and bike still ran great.

The reason the initial tuning map sent to me by DJ ran so poorly in normal operation mode is because it was way off and way incorrect on VE for my bike. not even remotely close, so there was no way the ECM could determine correct AFR and bike ran poorly. Once I got auto tune working, the TT fixed it up in short order by adjusting VE's an average of 11% richer on the first tuning run alone.

So I'm feeling very "sold" on this new TT module and WB tuning process. In 20 minutes of auto tuning it did a better job of finding optimal VE than I could ever do with manual VE tuning based on logging data (which takes hours worth of rides - and - changes in the summer vs winter).

Hit a nice long straight freeway onramp from light. opened it up 1st through 2,3,4- Bike comes *unglued* - hitting full throttle shifts at 2,3 you could feel the front wheel pulled straight and weight come off of it. This is the best the bike has run so far and I'm not fully done yet with VE tuning, then moving on to spark tuning.

Why do I overall dig this new module? Easy accurate fuel tuning, and ECM is using wide band O2 data to adjust VEs in real time as you ride. No longer need to mess with VE manually. No longer need to worry about fuel quality, altitude or air temp. You make changes strictly in the AFR tables and the TT will adjust VE on the fly to always hit those targets. And, your initial tuning map does not need to be that accurate- TT will fix it in short order so VE's are accurate to the bike and mods. New pipe? run TT auto tune again, done. New cam? same thing. Engine work? same. (spark timing needs will also change on cam / motor changes but that's another discussion)

So for example, lets say I want a good every day town / performance tune. I create a tune file with a slightly richer AFR table ranging from 12.8 in high load / high rpm areas to 13.8 in low load and cruise areas. I also set my idle AFR to 13.5 to keep ET's down in slow traffic and long stop lights. Maybe even 13.0 for idle in the hot summer months. I save this as "town-perf" tune file in the PV.

Now lets say I want to take a long 1200 mile ride and get the best mpg on the trip. I revise my AFR table for a leaner set of values - 12.8 in my WOT / high rpm areas but the low load / low rpm and most importantly the freeway cruise areas set those to range of 14.1 to 14.4 or even 14.6. save that as the "economy" tune file.

Load "economy" tune file to ecm, take trip- get to destination- can switch to the "town" map in a minute if needed. all very easy and no more time consuming log review / VE tweaking.

That's it for now- More to come as I play with it further. I wholeheartedly suggest buying the Powervision and Target Tune from FuelMoto- They are the only place able to provide decent support when needed. period.

I posted pictures of how to route the Target Tune sensor wires in a separate thread here:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...n-softail.html

 

yup that's it Jim- it is just 3m tape and it does not damage the paint. get them hot in the sun- hotter the better as it will soften the tape. if they are cold it is harder to do. i used a heat gun on mine, low setting till they were nice and warm.

now this part is important- when you saw through the backside of the reflector with the fishing line, you want the fishing line to be between the tape and the reflector- not between the tape and the frame paint. so as you start the fishing line pull forward so it is riding against the backside of the plastic reflector. keep pulling forward a bit and then start sawing down.

this will leave more tape residue on the frame but that all comes off with WD40, orange cleaner, goof off, bug and tar remover- and some patience of course. I use my finger to rub it off a bit at a time. Finish it off with some 3m or mothers swirl mark remover on a polishing cloth- that will get rid of any outline, or faint scratches from the fishing line. will look good as new. if you saw through with the fishing line between the tape and the paint, you'll have a lot of fine scratches to buff out.

If someone does not see you it won;t be due to not having those tiny reflectors. especially with 2-up riding or bags the rear is already covered anyway. And lets not forget your metal flake paint.

Anyone who does not see your bike is effing BLIND as a BAT.

 

Good point!

Thanks for the precautionary details! I really appreciate those - especially the tip on keeping the fishing line off direct contact with the paint.

Jim G

 

Just leave them on and not for the reasons you mentioned. They look fine.

 

Hi everyone, got my 2016 Black Breakout two weeks ago!! Would like to get rid a of reflectors but I live in Houston Texas and here Law says you have to have a Red REAR reflector... Any comments or suggestions?

 

Same story here in good ol' Germany. Suggestion: Never mind and get rid of that thing...

 

welcome and congrats! all states legally require a rear reflector. side reflectors are optional and not legally required.

I pulled all of my reflectors including the rear. Never been hassled for it but I never suggest doing that unless you're ok with potentially getting stopped- would have to be a pretty bored cop though. If I do ever get stopped and a "Fix it" ticket for no rear reflector, I'll just use some reflector bolts on the license plate bracket screws. on my other bike I've been riding it for years w/ no reflectors and never stopped once. even sitting at a light in front of police cars.

 

The REAR reflector the law required is indeed a REAR reflector, NOT a side reflector. Every taillight lens that I am aware of has a reflector portion built into it. That reflector portion reflects light from another vehicle's headlights or from any other light source.

The SIDE reflectors may or may not be required by local law. If they are, you obviously risk a ticket by not having one. In addition, whether local law requires one or not, removing any factory-provided side reflectors does open you up to being forced to assume some percentage of "fault" if someone runs his/her vehicle into yours at night, and the absence of the side reflectors was reasonably partially responsible for the other driver's failure to see your vehicle. In accidents like that where you are significantly injured, this could become VERY important.

The night accident is a rare event. A police officer looking for a reason to pull you over might be less rare.

If you do remove the side reflectors, just be aware of the (small) risks you are undertaking.

Jim G

 

stock HD tail lights don't have a reflector built into them as a side note- and the stock tail light housings are illegal technically by CA vehicle codes (tail / brake and turn signal lights are supposed to be physically separate bulbs) - although the vehicle codes don't entirely apply to motorbikes- e.g. turn signals not required here. so a bored cop can pull you over here even on a stock unmodified bike. depends on how they choose to interpret state vehicle codes. gotta love this wacky state.

 

Thanks! The reflector bolts should be a great option. That is one of the first thing I changed but I may put them back and take off the back reflector and still be in code... Jim has a good point on the side reflectors.