thanks for the info- really well done job

 

advice from a friend who is a long time detailer on high end luxury cars. everything he tells me I treat as gospel

I've been doing that on my 911 seats and other leathers for some time- jackets, boots, etc. Never noticed any adverse issues. Both products are safe for modern chemically treated leathers and chemically there is no indication of inter-product reaction. Properly caring for leather is (from what I was instructed by my friend), a multi-step and multi-product process for best long term results. Basically, "clean > condition > protect". 303 is the final protection step. Note that 303 is only good for finished smooth leathers, not suede or rough / raw finish leathers.

Here is a good blurb from the Tesla Owners forum on leather care and 303 in the mix. and you know those folks are really "AR" about their fancy electric cars.. main info and some other good leather products mentioned in the first post on page.

http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showt...ather-Interior

 

When I saw the 2013 CVO Breakout, I had to have it. So I traded my '08 Bones in for one. This 2016 CVO Breakout will appeal to a new crowd of HD riders who will take it and make it their own. That's the beauty of a HD. We make them our own.

 

Yesterday, while washing and waxing the Breakout, I found 2 of the 1/4 oz chrome wheel balance weights on the ground near the front wheel.

Today, I stopped at my HD dealership to have the front wheel rebalanced and the weights glued a little more reliably.

But when the mechanic took off the front wheel, it balanced perfectly. So, it turned out to be tje REAR wheel that had lost the weights (no idea how they got to near the front wheel), so the dealership ended up rebalancing the rear wheel too. But, the mechanic determined that the front wheel bearings needed replacement!

Now my Breakout had 7034 miles on it this morning when I arrived at the dealership. That seems pretty early for wheel bearing replacement. Joe the service writer said that "it happens". Sometimes apparently, the bearings are either not the best quality to begin with, or they were not installed well.

The dealership, Cowboy HD in Austin, Texas, did the bearing replacement under warranty, and charged me a total of $52 for removing, rebalancing, and reinstalling both wheels. On a saturday when they are a bit busy as this is their Chili Cookoff Contest day. I think they really looked after me today.

You might want to check your front wheel bearings. I know I suspected nothing. No noises, no vibration, nothing that I could detect riding the bike.

Jim G

 

A few posts back on this thread, I posted the dyno chart for my Breakout, and described the tune a bit. here are the two very different men who got the engine to where it is today:

This is my mechanic at the local HD dealership:





Brian is the best mechanic in the shop, and as you can tell from the photo, he rides. In fact, he rides into work most days from what I have seen, even when it is too hot or too cold. He installed my Turbine wheels and related pulley and disk, the D&D exhaust, the intake air cleaner kit, and the Stage 4 Race kit, and made SURE that Stage 4 kit was installed RIGHT - with cranking compression that was aggressive but just perfect.


This is Mike Lozano, the world class tuner who did that excellent tune with the incredibly flat perfect torque curve, after others had failed, despite the handicap of a too-large throttle body and a cam that kept the valves open a bit longer than he likes:



Notice how clean and well lighted Mike's shop is. By the way, while there, I got to see, in that room in the shop, a full race Porsche engine that Mike builds for race teams.

I have no garage, a 7% grade on my gravel (actually caliche) driveway, and am able to do SOME mechanical work on bikes, but not like either of these men, so they get the credit for building and tuning an engine that came out exactly how I had hoped it would, after each man had done his part.

The results we get are only as good as us and the people we depend on.

Jim G

 

Great post Jim. Damn now I'm gonna go pull my front wheel and check the bearings. Glad you were taken care of- Your last sentence summed it up. Not a lot of good tuners or mechanics around, but unfortunately a lot that claim to be. Glad you were lucky on both counts.

 

Hey Jim- Quick note, we just had a member post over in the gear ratio sticky, he put a Ness 70t pulley on his 2010 softail and it fit with the stock 32 front on stock belt. just barely fit, but it fits. It used up 3/4" of swingarm forward slot adjustment out of 7/8" total. reason I mention this is it looks a lot easier to find nice chrome 70t pulleys on ebay - nothing in chrome for 68T. I think the 70T with your planned motor sprocket change and stock 32t front pulley would net you about 13% change, same as doing the 30t/70t pulleys.

 

You are close on the math. The 1.059 that the Primo Rivera compensator sprocket change kit gives you is pretty close to the 32/30 = 1.0666 which the front drive belt pulley switch gives you (within .0077). And, the compensator sprocket kit is a lot less work than the front pulley replacement.

The compensator kit plus the 70 tooth rear belt pulley gives you 1.059 x 70/66 = 1.123, or about 12.3% versus the 13% achieved by doing the front and rear pulleys instead.

In addition, to further cut the cost, I can wait until I again need a new tire (which will be within another 3000 to 3500 miles or so ), and have my dealer mechanic, Brian, do the pulley swap at the same time as he has the wheel off the bike to do the tire swap.

Two further questions though:

1. When you did your gearing changes, did you have to do the adjustment on the gearing factor within the ECM right away? i.e. does making the physical gearing change upset the ABS system enough to make the bike unrideable or unsafe if you don't do it at the same time? If so, I would need to take my PowerVision unit to the dealership to reflash the ECM before riding the bike back home.

2. You mentioned that the 70 tooth pulley fits with the stock belt and stock front pulley, but barely, at least for one Breakout owner. This concerns me a bit. Would all Breakouts be identical? i.e. is HD's factory build THAT consistent? Also, do belts, like chains, stretch in overall length with miles, or does their internal cord structure prevent that? (Just the rubber wears?). If they DO stretch with miles, then the 70T pulley might have fit THAT owner's Breakout (because his belt had already stretched enough) but not another Breakout. I have never researched belts seriously, as I have never needed to before.

Jim G

 

Jim- good points.

For #1- I don't have ABS on mine, in 2013 it was optional. To be on the safe side I would enter the new gearing factor numbers before riding off. easy enough to do if you have the new tune file uploaded and ready to flash. Probably the best place that could answer the ABS question is Baker, since they sell DD7 drop in trannies with different ratios for current HD (man wouldn't that be nice- I love my DD6 on the Big Dog).

For #2, the exact bike is a CrossBones, but no matter since all softails from 2007-up use the same 133t belt and 32/66 pulleys- info is equally applicable to BO's. I would agree that some belt stretch does come into play here. Only reason I did not try it initially and instead did the 68t rear pulley with the stock 32 front, is I calculated I would need 15/16" of forward adjustment to fit a 32t/70t combo- but apparently it takes less.
To be sure on your bike, measure forward slot space in your rear swingarm. see if you have 7/8" of available space to move axle forward. It's pretty easy to measure it accurately by removing the rear axle nut and washer with bike on center stand or jack. the rear wheel won't move at all since it is under tension from the belt and against the adjusters. measure space in slot in front of the axle.

 

No can do.No center stand. 7% grade gravel caliche driveway.

I do wonder if those belts stretch at all like a chain does, or not. Need to research that some time.

Jim G