Sorry my HP is 101 Tq 108

 

got it- you should be getting 105hp/110tq or better especially considering you have good hillside heads. seriously though, change out the final drive pulleys and you'll crap a gold twinkie. I believe the 30t front from a Tri Glide fits right on- i have the info somewhere but there is indeed a direct fitment part. you should be able to use the same belt - i plan to do my front pulley this fall.

 

10.1 Comp, stock tb, should be able to do .650 lift, because he added the high lift springs

 

k that's what I thought- so you paid for top performance with the heads but are not yet using it

your compression is too low for optimal use of the 57h - you should be at 10.5-10.6:1

Most folks buy the 57H or other cams under 600 lift so it will work with the stock HD heads. e.g. "bolt in upgrade"

Get a higher lift cam like 625-650, intake close around 41-42, 52mm TB and 4.9 injectors, and raise your CR to 10.6:1 by trimming the tops of cylinders to zero-deck the piston. set your final quench to about 0.035 with the combination of cylinder trimming plus the head gasket. this math can be worked out before hand- it's basic 101 stuff for any competent engine builder.

This is a kick *** cam for a town bike 103 or larger motor. period. look at the specs- T-Man makes very good cams. http://tmanperformance.com/Cams/t-man-625/

Lastly- gearing is key with a good cam. most all "town cams" that bring on the TQ early like to have final gearing in the mid 3 range, like 3.6 or 3.75. if you call a cam maker like Bob Woods or Tman and ask what cam they recommend, they will most always ask what your final gearing ratio is. all these things work together to give you an insane ride. if one thing is off it kills everything else. if your current engine builder is not bringing these things up, may want to shop around.

Also you will need roller rockers for cams over 600 lift- Jims are very good.

 

so anyway I know I threw a lot out there so let me sum it up- if you re-think your current 103 build and optimize it, and do the pulley swap, I'm 100% sure you will get what you want at half the cost of what you're planning to spend on a 124 build.

 

Andrews recommends stock compression and not to go over 10.1 that's why it was set at 10.1.

I just picked the wrong cam and should have went to a 107 while the heads were off.

 

Yeh you are correct I forgot the intake close on that was 38. so at 10.5:1 you'd have 9.7:1 dynamic comp and 205 ccp. tuning must be spot on. you could go 10.3:1, just keep the ccp down around 195 and you're good on pump gas.

but really if you get a better cam, TB, injectors, you'll see a lot more out of those nice heads. i suppose dropping in 107 cylinders wouldn't be a big ordeal either- but you will definitely need the bigger TB and injectors either way if you want max hp/tq. you could look at the final drive gearing swap as an equivalent to adding more CI to the motor. does the same thing, makes the bike get up and go faster.

 

In that first video you posted it looks like a softail with mid controls. I'd love to know more about that particular set up on that bike.

 

yeh nicely done bike all around and the mid controls are pretty sweet- no info on it unfortunately- here is that person's main video page, there is one more vid on that page of a blue rocker with these pipes https://www.youtube.com/user/decont13/videos

i know you're gettin some idea now.. right?? lol

 

Getting some ideas?! I've been obsessing over mid controls on my sled for months now.
I'm pretty much settled on the exile cycles Kit. But my interest still peaks when I see a different mid control set up on a softail frame.

I'm also looking for a new exhaust for my rocker. Hellbents are one my radar as well.