It is a vinyl wrap, easy to replace if gets damaged, I don't normally spill gas on the tank but will not damage if washed off straight away. The tank wrap is in two halves so can replace just one half if need be.

 

Really nice job on that wrap with vinyl. takes some skills.

 

It's a big motor for a daily rider. heat can be an issue, gas mileage not so hot, and reliability can be suspect. When getting into big inches just be absolutely sure you work with an engine builder that knows wtf they are doing, has a solid rep and is preferably local for any warranty issues.

I've seen a lot of 124 builds that had to be detuned to be good for daily reliable riding, and at that point a beefed up 103 or 110 would be making almost the same power. for example, go look up the specs on S&S' 124" crate motor- it's pretty tame for the inches, but because of that it's also quite reliable.

Also if you do get a fat 124 putting out some serious numbers, you will definitely need a bad *** clutch and a wider belt- or convert to chain final drive. the stock belt is not made to handle it. maybe trans too (not sure how much power the current HD trans are designed to put up with). maybe swap to a solid front primary sprocket instead of the compensator sprocket since they can break. just be thorough and do your complete homework on this type of custom build and also as it will relate to the other drive components in the bike.

Do you have someone verifiably good to work with? Not trying to sound alarmist - a 124 is bad ***- but just throwing some things out to consider for a big inch build especially with how you plan to ride the bike, how much do you want to keep wrenching on it regularly, etc etc.

 

Yeah it would be a mild build for reliability, but also have power that could be replicated with a smaller engine.

I know a credible builder that did my heads. He knows his stuff.

Also thought about taking it to the guy that did my tune. He knows his stuff also.

 

ok cool as long as you got someone good and they can prove it to a level of satisfaction. honestly, most shops won't recommend a 124 for a daily rider town bike. Don't forget you'll need a much larger throttle body, much larger injectors, and the intake.

For parts here is a source to consider- very good stuff at a reasonable price. the 105 kit is pretty nice- you can get about the same numbers as built 107 without the common associated heat issues. AMS Stage 1 heads http://amsmotomachine.com/index.php/hdparts#engkits They also have 105 cylinders with pistons for little more than set of pistons.

What is your engine putting out now? you should be able to get 105hp/115tq with a properly built 103. that with a smaller front final drive gear (30t) and the larger 68t sportster pulley would give you a final drive ratio in the mid 3's, that **** will give you smiles all day long. and 6th will still be plenty fine on the freeway. and you won't need a monster motor to go seriously fast, quickly.

My personal thought on it, go as large as you can without having to worry about screwing with the rest of the drive train to support big inches. it's expensive, lots of bike downtime, and lots of final tweaking / fussing. I do that with my big dog but I have the BO as a solid second bike. not that my 107 is big inches, but it is built on the ragged edge of what should physically be possible to run in any sort of reliable manner. hah.

 

if you ever want a sanity check / second opinion, call over to Hillside Cycle and get their feel on a 124 build. I'd trust their opinion either way, good guys and know their twin cams. see what they offer for kits, prices, their thoughts on cams, TB, compression, hp/tq in a daily rider, etc. - good info to have for comparison.

 

I probably should go smaller and not have to worry about clutch, transmission and all that mess. But I could make my engine work less with more cubes.

I believe I was 108/101.

 

Lmao. Yeah Scott did my heads. We've talked about the 124.

 

Yes, exactly- just know what you're in for so you have the full picture first and are aware of possible added expenses.


Total misnomer- if your engine is working right and is built right it is not working too hard, regardless of it's high output. the problem is, most performance builds are not done quite right. wrong cams, engine techs did not do their engine math and the quench is (who knows), and can't even figure out the dynamic comp. it's a crapshoot. most always I see cams go in that don;t make crap for tq until 3k rpm. that sucks for a town bike and it feels slow. you want that tq on hard and full by 2k tops. for example, my 107 has 100 tq by 1800 rpm and shoots up from there to 130, by the time it is curving down at 4500k the HP has built up well over 100 and takes over the pulling duties until you decide to relax the throttle somewhere at 6k.

your 103 is putting out more HP than TQ. that is not correct. you should have at least 10 more TQ than HP on a given decent build. could be tuning, could be wrong cam, could be too small of TB, but something is not right so i can see why you are wanting a lot more. plus, the final gearing on the breakout is excessively tall and makes the bike pull slow.

I'm pretty confident a 105 properly built, cammed and combined with the final drive pulley changes, larger 58mm TB and bigger injectors will rip your nuts off. if you're gonna bore the case then 110 or 117 should give you way more than you'll need.

sorry for the ramblings -love talking about motors. if any of this helps, then cool. it's all FWIW..

 

LOL!! yeh just saw that in your sig- hillside heads. so we know you have good heads. you have the 57H cam, which is ok, i might have gone with a TW 777 but these cams are all pretty close in spec so that's splitting hairs.

What is your static comp? 10.5?
Stock TB or larger 58mm with larger 4.9 injectors?
Roller rockers?
Can the hillside heads take more lift than 600?

the stock 48 TB and 3.9 injectors will limit out at around 100hp. TB gets too restrictive and the 3.9 injectors start exceeding their duty cycle / not enough fuel output to keep up. remember an engine is just a big air pump. the more you get air / fuel in and out, the faster it goes. it's only as efficient as it's most restrictive part. in short you may have a lot of bang left on the table with your current build. e.g higher lift cam with intake close event around 41, larger tb and injectors, proper tune, 10.6:1 static comp, quench around .030-.035, should kick some serious *** right from off idle. just get your TQ numbers up and have it come on early, and reduce your final drive ratio - you'll notice a massive difference and have lots of $$ saved.