Hi LA_Dog


I apreciate all input on my project. I am traveling around South e
East Asia at the moment so not wifi available at all times...


I will contact the Cam companies when back in UKbut have looked at the details since I saw your post.


The H competion rods are only 0.010 longer than original so will take CR from 9.3 to about 9.46 so well within the 10:1 CR. I alreade rode the bike about 320 miles before I brought it to TTS performance and it was very fresh and lifely and no signs of detonations.. I have the power vision connected and the ET was around 235-240 cruising at 80-90mph which I think aint to bad..


The reason for Vrod front forks is not about performance... it is for the dual disc conversion.. attacment for calipers on both sides.. The Vrod forks are also 49mm but either 3/4" or 1" longer so am interested to see what effect it will have on looks and performance..


again apreciate your input on my project.. am bit in the dark on the whole thing and any input is apreciated..


After reading the whole 270 pages of this thread... then was hoping also to get comments from 24V and JimG as they both seem very knowledgable and active Breakout memebers.. :-)


Regards from Philippines..

 

Be careful what you wish for. While jimG is a knowledgeable guy he'll knowledge you to death. 24v and LADog get right to the point.

 

Forgive my ignorance but on this sprocket change/upgrade what are the pros/cons and what else if anything did you have to change for it? Thanks.

Michael

 

Yep- Performance Machine (and probably some other companies) make a setup that combines the rear brake disc and caliper with the right side pulley. this requires either welding mounting tabs for the brake caliper on the right side of swingarm, or buying the aftermarket swingarm as well.

Very trick setup for any bike- definitely a "visual only" upgrade albeit a nice one.

I like those mirrors- would love a set in black. Thunderbike really does a nice job with modifications to the Breakout.

BTW welcome to the forums!

 

ok that's sounding better. if your CR is really only 9.4 then yes you'll still be safe. I give you my word though, if you ditch those cams, mill the heads a bit to raise compression to say 10.5:1, and get the right cam to go with it, you will **** yourself. you have a beast waiting to be unleashed. anyway, Hillside, Bob Woods, T-Man can all give you some advice on what to get. Also make sure your final quench is between 0.030 and 0.035. this is very important for optimal combustion. you calculate this by determining height of piston top in the bore (is it "zero" flush with the top of cylinder at TDC, or is it 0.010 down in the bore, etc). use this number and add the thickness of your head gasket to it, to get your quench. For example, if your head gasket is .030 and your piston sits 0.010 down in the cylinder bore at top dead center, your final quench is 0.040. You can reduce the quench by using a thinner cylinder base gasket as well, for example a .010 base gasket will make the piston sit 0.010 higher versus a 0.020 base gasket. You can also have the cylinders shaved a bit shorter if needed. Whenever I build a motor I always set up the pistons to be "zero deck" so the top of piston is flush with top of cylinder at TDC. That way I can control the quench with just the head gasket. Makes it easier to fine tune your static CR up or down a bit, if needed, by using a thinner or thicker head gasket.

Anyway- short of it is, know your EXACT static compression, use an optimal quench of 0.030-0.035, and choose a better cam designed for that compression and your riding style.

When choosing a performance cam you must always set your static compression to the "optimal" range for the cam. Every cam is designed for an ideal static compression so it results in an optimal dynamic compression. Woods, T-Man and many other cam makers always specify optimal static compression range for their cams. For example, the T-Man 625 Evo cam is designed for an optimal 10.5 static CR and will result in a dynamic compression of 9.5.

The VROD dual disc setup will be pretty trick- I see your point. You will also get better cornering clearance with the 1" longer fork. You can set your "fork sag" lower if needed by shortening the preload spacers. Although I think you'll be happy with the added 1" and visually you can't tell the diff. I would still get the race tech 1.0kg springs and Ricor dampers though, they work wickedly well and will fit the VROD forks. Call Race Tech and Ricor to order the right parts. you'll find the installation rather easy.

 

Are you kidding- I'm a rambling post *****. look I already got 4 or 5 posts on this page alone and it's only 7:30am.. LOL

 

No worries- that's what these forums are for, asking questions. all you need is:

1. the 40444-07 68T sportster sprocket from HD
2. the shorter sportster bolts and washers from HD
3. remove rear wheel, remove stock sprocket and put on the new sprocket, tighten bolts to proper TQ (60 ft lbs on first tighten, then loosen each bolt a bit and final tighten to 77 ft-lbs)
4. put wheel back on, align wheel, set belt tension, tighten axle nut to 95 ft-lbs, go ride and enjoy!

[EDIT] 5. whoops almost forgot, your speedo will be off by 3% due to final drive ratio change.
You'll need a PV2, SERT, or have dealer change the speedometer calibration number to 2262 pulses/km. If that is still slightly off then use 2232.

 

Awesome. Thanks.

Michael

 

I got one of the little "bling" WilleG emblems for the custom backrest. nothing special just wanted to post another gratuitous photo of the bike.. ;p
BTW I found a pair of those mirrors in Black, the ones on the Thunderbike CVO Breakout a few posts up. They are the Rizoma Circuit 851 mirrors, about $130 each.
Got the pair on ebay for $85 shipped. figured it was worth a gamble at that price..

 

Never heard of any reliability issues due to running a stock crank with a procharger setup with mild boost?

That being said, no, the engine will be getting a overhaul, I want this thing to be reliable. After playing with forced induction on my car I'll never go back.