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Everything Breakout! Find out everything you need to know! Some topics include:
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
The Everything Breakout Thread
#2332
There are options which are semi gloss or satin, but I have yet to see something in a true gloss hold up on exhaust.
I have powder coated my shields twice now. The first time it faded to flat in areas and blistered a little. I wrapped the pipes, then re coated the shields. It is much better this time, but still not staying glossy everywhere.
I have powder coated my shields twice now. The first time it faded to flat in areas and blistered a little. I wrapped the pipes, then re coated the shields. It is much better this time, but still not staying glossy everywhere.
How many wrap layers did you do with the header tape? one layer, two layers etc?
#2333
Nice lookin' scoot, obviously a lot of time and though put into the mods. I'm personally not crazy about the larger fender, but that's just my own preference. Overall it looks good on your BO and fits everything else you've done to it.
#2335
YA MAN! That's some "ol skool" **** right there- I did the same with ply and diamond rubber mat on a rat bike a long time ago. And you gotta love the zip tie mounting. heh. That is what's cool about the Breakout- it is a modern bike, but you can do some ol skool / rat bike mods and visually it works.
You are crazy that looks like crap. Glad he said its only temporary
Love the front fender. I ordered one the other day. Now I have to find a place to paint it Morocco Gold
#2336
1 layer won't do much for heat insulation- usually you need 3 to 5 layers and yeh it can end up too thick for a lot of applications. I just finished wrapping the header on my YZF426 - the front of the header manifold was just cooking the bottom of the exhaust side radiator. I barely managed to squeeze three wraps on there and had to use some longer bolts to re-attach the heat shields to pipe.
#2337
#2338
#2339
#2340
posted this in a tire-related thread but wanted to copy here as well, since it's Breakout specific.
To recap, I put on new Night Dragon tires (240 rear and narrower 120/70/21 front), new ECB HH+ front brake pads, Race Tech 1.0kg springs for 06+ FXDB (fits Breakout), and Ricor Intiminator Damper valves. Everything installed easy and no fitment issues noted.
I got everything installed late yesterday, bike is waiting for a test ride today. Pulling the wheels, forks and reinstalling was actually pretty easy on this particular bike. the only thing is some special sized tools are needed, and I will note them in a follow up.
DIY Warning on removing the fok tube top cap nut - There was a LOT of preload on the stock springs via a really long spacer sitting on top of really long progressive (crappy) springs. I would not advise removing the top tube caps while fork tubes are on the bike, you just won't have enough physical leverage to control the pop-off.
How I safely remove these is to first loosen the top triple tree pinch bolt, then loosen tube top cap while on bike (maybe 1 or 2 turns), then loosen bottom pinch bolt and pull fork leg out (wipe upper part of fork tube first with wd40 for easy slide out with no scratches). Next, set bottom end of fork on ground, on a couple of layers of soft cloth. place the 35mm socket on cap bolt, then drape a big towel over the fork tube that has a hole poked in it for the 3/8" drive ratchet wrench. Use a bungee or tape and do a wrap around the towel about halfway down the fork tube- then stick the ratchet wrench through the hole in towel into the 35mm socket and proceed to remove cap nut, while putting your body weight over the wrench to control pop-up of the cap / keep pressure off the threads. When the cap pops free, the towel will prevent the cap from flying out of control and you can easily take it off without damaging the cap finish.
Putting the cap back on after spring swap was easy- the Race Tech springs only required a short spacer and 7/8" of preload. Again easy to do while fork tube is off bike and on ground. It only required some moderate body pressure to get the threads started. Tip: To get the cap threads started it is easier to hold the cap still while pressing down and spin the upper fork tube, than it is to hold the tube still and turn the cap. Plus you have to hold the upper fork tube up with your hand, with the thin 5w oil the upper tube will creep down if not help up, and you don't want fork oil everywhere.
First impression sitting on bike, holding front brake, rocking bike forward and back, these forks really feel stiff now. The Ricor dampers actually "damp". . I hope, not too stiff. Only a ride will tell. I will say though, there is not a lot of over-travel built into the Breakout forks. Even before this spring swap, I noticed on hitting some minor ruts that the fork would not drop enough to take up the pavement void, and you'd hear the 'clunk' of the extension stop. The fix for this might be to go with a set of FXDWG tubes, 1.5" longer, then adjust the preload and sag to give the bike a longer overtravel.
so I'm not expecting this spring and damper upgrade to cure that, just the dive, ride quality and washiness. If that works out then I'll look into getting the WG tubes.
Anyway- more to report later after a ride.
I put the black rubber fork boot gaiters on the fork lowers as well, (Bikers Choice short ones for 49mm Dyna forks) they fit perfect but I'm not sure if I like how they look- I'll post pics later as well.
To recap, I put on new Night Dragon tires (240 rear and narrower 120/70/21 front), new ECB HH+ front brake pads, Race Tech 1.0kg springs for 06+ FXDB (fits Breakout), and Ricor Intiminator Damper valves. Everything installed easy and no fitment issues noted.
I got everything installed late yesterday, bike is waiting for a test ride today. Pulling the wheels, forks and reinstalling was actually pretty easy on this particular bike. the only thing is some special sized tools are needed, and I will note them in a follow up.
DIY Warning on removing the fok tube top cap nut - There was a LOT of preload on the stock springs via a really long spacer sitting on top of really long progressive (crappy) springs. I would not advise removing the top tube caps while fork tubes are on the bike, you just won't have enough physical leverage to control the pop-off.
How I safely remove these is to first loosen the top triple tree pinch bolt, then loosen tube top cap while on bike (maybe 1 or 2 turns), then loosen bottom pinch bolt and pull fork leg out (wipe upper part of fork tube first with wd40 for easy slide out with no scratches). Next, set bottom end of fork on ground, on a couple of layers of soft cloth. place the 35mm socket on cap bolt, then drape a big towel over the fork tube that has a hole poked in it for the 3/8" drive ratchet wrench. Use a bungee or tape and do a wrap around the towel about halfway down the fork tube- then stick the ratchet wrench through the hole in towel into the 35mm socket and proceed to remove cap nut, while putting your body weight over the wrench to control pop-up of the cap / keep pressure off the threads. When the cap pops free, the towel will prevent the cap from flying out of control and you can easily take it off without damaging the cap finish.
Putting the cap back on after spring swap was easy- the Race Tech springs only required a short spacer and 7/8" of preload. Again easy to do while fork tube is off bike and on ground. It only required some moderate body pressure to get the threads started. Tip: To get the cap threads started it is easier to hold the cap still while pressing down and spin the upper fork tube, than it is to hold the tube still and turn the cap. Plus you have to hold the upper fork tube up with your hand, with the thin 5w oil the upper tube will creep down if not help up, and you don't want fork oil everywhere.
First impression sitting on bike, holding front brake, rocking bike forward and back, these forks really feel stiff now. The Ricor dampers actually "damp". . I hope, not too stiff. Only a ride will tell. I will say though, there is not a lot of over-travel built into the Breakout forks. Even before this spring swap, I noticed on hitting some minor ruts that the fork would not drop enough to take up the pavement void, and you'd hear the 'clunk' of the extension stop. The fix for this might be to go with a set of FXDWG tubes, 1.5" longer, then adjust the preload and sag to give the bike a longer overtravel.
so I'm not expecting this spring and damper upgrade to cure that, just the dive, ride quality and washiness. If that works out then I'll look into getting the WG tubes.
Anyway- more to report later after a ride.
I put the black rubber fork boot gaiters on the fork lowers as well, (Bikers Choice short ones for 49mm Dyna forks) they fit perfect but I'm not sure if I like how they look- I'll post pics later as well.