Does anyone have the procedure for changing the fork oil without removing the fork tubes from the bike. I think you refill from the drain screw hole but not 100% sure.

 

I don't know about FL style forks, but here is howI did iton the FX forks on my 02 Dyna and it worked fine.

Remove the handlebar clamp and move the handlebars asideso you can get access to the large chrome fork nuts at the tops of the tubes. (Be sure to put some protection on your gas tank so the bars don't scratch it.) Break thefork nutsloose with a breaker bar and 1 3/8" socket, but don't remove themuntil you have jacked up the front end to take the load off the fork springs.

Remove the large fork nuts. Drain the old oil by removing the drainscrews at the bottom of the forks.Replace them after the tubes have drained.Measure 10-11 oz. of fresh fork oil for each fork andfunnel it into the forksthrough the top. Be sure you get thesameamount in each fork, as this can affect handling. Now the hard part. Put a glove onyour hand to protect your palm, put the socket on the large fork nut, and press for all you're worth while turning clockwise torestart the forknutsin the tubes. Be very careful not to cross thread them while you're doing this!Tighten snugly, lower the front end, and finish tightening. Replace the handlebars and have a beer.

You might have some trouble locatinga 1 3/8 socket in a 1/2" drive. Ifound a nonchromeone at NAPA for about $13. It will pay for itselfin one oil change.I changed my fork oil at 20,000 as prescribed, and it was filthy. I plan on doing it at more frequent intervals from now on.

 

I have an 06Heritage Classic and changing the fork oil was easy. The most difficult task was removing the drain screws. You will probably need a hand impact toolto remove the drain screws, and a #3 phillips bit. Remove drain screws and jack bike to get weight off front end. I used a 1 3/8 inch open end wrench to remove fork caps (didnt have to remove handbars). Drain oil and replace drain screws (with new ones) Add however much oil owners manual or servich manual says (mine was 13 oz in each side). Replace fork caps and torque to specs and go ride. There wasn't any tension on the fork caps on my bike. Took about a half hour to do it. Good luck.

Edit: I also used Screamin eagle performance fork oil instead of the type E they say to use. Made a huge difference in the way bike handled and forks don't bottom out like they did with the old oil.

 

...your forks were bottoming out because you were running little if any preload. On most softails you should have about 3/4" ormore sticking out top that you will have to compress to get nut's back on.
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OK, still having problems. I got these forks from a breakers, Showa wide glide. There is no preload when you fit the top nut and I am wondering if there is a spacer missing? Changed the oil and the forks are really spongey. Filled with 12oz of 20w oil. Does anyone have an assembly diagram of the Showa forks?
Thanks.

 

...should have a PVC or metal tube spacer with a coupla washers.Cut new spacers from PVC.. should be sticking out about 1/2-3/4". Fill with 10-11 oz fluid and put it back together.
See:
http://www.progressivesuspension.com...rings/3055.pdf
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