Hi yall,

I am a little disappointed with my results but I did ask for something that will not destroy my gas mileage and the engine is a baby and not broken in so he could not really get on it for the pull. The power curve looks almost identical to my 103" only 35 hp and torque higher. I have rinehart crossbacks, heavy breather, 58mm throttlebody and woods cams...I think it will perform how I want it to, but i was hoping for 130/140...the 140 was probably a pipe dream and 130 is fine, but am really disappointed on the 110 hp. anyone think there will be a big improvement once i get my full dyno done after 1000 miles?

 

not sure about the 120R but a friend of mine just dyno'ed his S&S 124 that was $2000 less than the 120R and has a 12 month warranty and he got 140/136 out of it

 

well that sucks! last year when I was pricing things out that engine cost more and I almost got it anyway because there was a warranty. My setup cost like 9k including tons of labor and I swear that engoine was gonna be that much in parts almost plus the same labor....nice to know I made a huge error in my purchase decision.

 

9K? You paid WAY too much! My Father put one in his Street Glide Trike and did it for 6K, and that included a full dual pipe swap SEPST, and air cleaner. And if your tuner is worth a **** he could "break your engine in" right on the dyno. Jamie at fuelmoto does it all the time.

 

Ahhh. man that sucks. After 9 grand i would want those numbers. Dont kick the dirt yet you can still see what you can punch out.

Update this i wanna see if you can pul more power out.

 

the 9k was because i had a ton of stuff done at 1 time. Paint, handlebars, engine, plus a few things changed in the engine like roller rockers and stuff. I am in Japan and I do not have a receipt next to me to see what cost what so I listed the total cost. I just remember reading that the S&S motors were almost 8 k which is what I thought to be true and that is why I went with the 120r then had a few higher quality parts put in. My tuner did not charge me for the Dyno and wants me to bring it back in 1000 miles for the full tune as he said "I could do a few pulls and dial her in but do not wanna glaze the rings or cause any other damage and wanna really pull heard on her for the tune" I also do not know if it matters but he does his tunes in 5th i think, but it might have been 4th. either way it is not in top gear so maybe there is a difference there?

 

I know I am losing maybe 5-8 hp and possibly even torque due to my pipes but they have the look and sound I want and that 5-8 is not a big deal all said and done, but when I see 20 or so less hp and 5-10 less torque than I thought I would that is when I am like WTF. I think most of it is prolly because I asked him to baby the engine and not just try to get high numbers but get high reliablilty and decent gas mileage out of her. do you think he could have severely limited the power to try to accomodate that request or is thisbecause of having just not quite perfectly matched parts bottlenecking me somewhere?

 

I think my engine was like 5500 and the throttle body cams and roller rockers were like 500 or so more plus the labor and the paint which was very high but I am really pleased with the way that turned out, looks wise. Aside from getting a fatter rear tire or maybe some new wheels, I would not change anything on her. Performance wise, I am sure she will pull like hell but still less than others with a similar setup and I am wondering what caused it. but if this is the worst thing that happens to me in my life then I guess I have it pretty good right LOL

 

Dude. You don't have a full tune. You are not going to have great numbers on a canned tune set up for breakin. Give it a good break in, tune it right, and then see where you are at. If after you break it in and then have a real tune, and the numbers are way low, then bitch. Personally I'd wet myself over 110/130....but my engine is much smaller. I would be hoping for more as well given the engine, but tune is everything. Just to put it in perspective....I went in to my dyno with a break in tune. Started with 85/98 and rolled out with 101/116 inside of a few hours on the dyno.

 

I don't think you should read much into the numbers until you've done the breakin. Awesome when you have an operator that has the skills to break in your motor for you. I'd just as soon break my own in and then let them give it a tune. I like to heat cycle and then change oil frequently for the first 500 miles and then give it a workout in short bursts for the next five. I think your end result should mirror your intended use. I'm in the middle of a 124 build but am keeping the compression down to 10.25 to 1 because I travel a few months a year and can't always find the best gas. I'm using a cam that's power is on the bottom because I hardly ever rev over 5k. And I'm being conservative on injectors because I still need to get over 150 miles before gas stops. I hope I'll make over 120/120 but if not I still think I'll have a rig that gets me around rigs on hills and still has some thrill factor. I'm not going to advertise either cause it's fun to pass your buddies when they're flogging it with the best they have.