Cam tensioners and Questions
#1
Cam tensioners and Questions
I admit i know nothing about motors. i can do most of the work on a bike but when it comes to motor work i dont know how to do a damn thing and dont know anything about nothing. SO
my bike has 33000 miles on it. ive never replaced the cam tensioners. Ive been reading alot about this and it sounds like i better get them checked and probably replaced this summer. do they have to take the cams out to replace the tensioners? if so obviously it would be best to just have them put in a different better than stock cam.
which cam would be best for a 88 in motor that when the cylinders or pistons get wore or go bad will be upgraded to a 95 in motor. Im happy with the motor now im not looking to produce a monster horsepower motor. Just a little bit better sounding more perky cam. Bike also has hi flow and a mikuni 42 on it.
how many hours do you think a stealership will charge to do a job like this?
thanks ahead of time for all your help everyone.
my bike has 33000 miles on it. ive never replaced the cam tensioners. Ive been reading alot about this and it sounds like i better get them checked and probably replaced this summer. do they have to take the cams out to replace the tensioners? if so obviously it would be best to just have them put in a different better than stock cam.
which cam would be best for a 88 in motor that when the cylinders or pistons get wore or go bad will be upgraded to a 95 in motor. Im happy with the motor now im not looking to produce a monster horsepower motor. Just a little bit better sounding more perky cam. Bike also has hi flow and a mikuni 42 on it.
how many hours do you think a stealership will charge to do a job like this?
thanks ahead of time for all your help everyone.
#2
The Andrews 21 cam is a good choice that many are happy with.
To replace tensioners, the cams must be removed. There are two ways.
1. They can remove the rocker box covers and rockers, to remove the push rods and then the tappets (lifters).
2. They can cut the pushrods and leave all else in tact. This will require new pushrods be installed, of the adjustable variety.
Costs offset each other.
There is a ton of information out there to read on these forums. If you want to upgrade to hydraulic tensioners, you'll need to get the newer parts and 'conversion' cams. The bearing races are different sizes for the newer bikes, and conversion cams are cut for the differences.
Parts alone if you upgrade, including cams and gaskets will be close to $800. Labor will be at least 5 hours, give or take.
It's not a hard job. I've never done motor work myself, and my first motor project was to build my 88" into a 98". It's easy. Fuel Moto sells a kit, which also includes the updated cam chest components.
Just some ideas....
To replace tensioners, the cams must be removed. There are two ways.
1. They can remove the rocker box covers and rockers, to remove the push rods and then the tappets (lifters).
2. They can cut the pushrods and leave all else in tact. This will require new pushrods be installed, of the adjustable variety.
Costs offset each other.
There is a ton of information out there to read on these forums. If you want to upgrade to hydraulic tensioners, you'll need to get the newer parts and 'conversion' cams. The bearing races are different sizes for the newer bikes, and conversion cams are cut for the differences.
Parts alone if you upgrade, including cams and gaskets will be close to $800. Labor will be at least 5 hours, give or take.
It's not a hard job. I've never done motor work myself, and my first motor project was to build my 88" into a 98". It's easy. Fuel Moto sells a kit, which also includes the updated cam chest components.
Just some ideas....
#3
#4
If your creative you can change the tensioners without removing the cams. A guy on YouTube made a homade tool to remove the inner tensioner without removing the cams.
That's the approach I was gonna take but I found out I had gear drives already installed.
The other can be removed with a channel locks after you remove the 2 gears and chain.
That's the approach I was gonna take but I found out I had gear drives already installed.
The other can be removed with a channel locks after you remove the 2 gears and chain.
#5
#6
I did mine on my '02 RK thats still an 88, found some plastic floating around when i checked. Be sure to check inner bearings while your in there. The one on my front cam was on the verge of going away, front cam damaged on bearing surface, so I went with S&S 510 gear drives. Very pleased with performance and sound.
#7
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#8
#9
Last time I did it, I just replaced the tensioners with stock style, if it lasts another 20k, I'm cool with at, it isn't a hard job. I replaced the inner cam bearings while I was in there, I have the tools from heartland, cost about $100.
I know upgrading to the newer hydraulic kind is ideal, but I don't feel like spending that kind of money just to still have stock cams.
I know upgrading to the newer hydraulic kind is ideal, but I don't feel like spending that kind of money just to still have stock cams.
#10
Exactly. Honestly, on the early twin cams with spring tensioners, when upgrading cams it's silly not to go with gear drives. there not that much more money, by time you buy new tensioners and deal with that your better off with gear drives.
Of course you have to check crank runout and such. But you have no worries after that.
Of course you have to check crank runout and such. But you have no worries after that.