The noise is like a metallic clicking sound, like if you were shuffling metallic cards. It's coming from somewhere in front of the bike. It ebbs and flows with the RPM. In other words, if I slow down the motor, the clicking slows down, too. If I give it throttle, the noise usually disappears. When the motor settles down, sometimes it comes back on, sometimes not.

It's driving me nuts!

It's a 2006 Heritage FLST, with 24,000 miles. I know a lot of guys say check your tensioners at that mileage. Could that be what's causing it?

 

Sounds like how I found out that my inner cam bearing failed. My first question is does the noise exist on initial start-up when the motor is cold, or only when it's warm? If it is there when cold, it is possible that it is a wobbly cam on a failed inner bearing. I'd have it checked out, for sure. Good luck.

 

A buddy of mine was experiancing a similar noise. After opening up the cam chest, it was discovered that a inner bearing and the inner cam tensioner were destroyed.

 

Noises like that generally do not get better....my guess would be the inner bearings

 

Get you a stethoscope (for both ears..not just a screwdriver) If its a bearing you will be able to tell. If all you here is a steady hum you are probably OK. Sounds migrate all over these engines. Study your service manual and probe all around and down inside on back side of primary. I had an odd random click that I popped the timing chain cover (easy job) and all OK. Popped primary copper and found at first that my compensator nut was loose. Dealer had tightened it twice over the years. Fixed that and all back together and it was still there. Mostly when I throttled of at about 25 mph, Knew then it was still in primary with my stethoscope. Pulled primary down again completely and found alternator spline was completely gone and what was happening was that compenstator spring was driving it but it was slipping enough to wear a groove and let sprocket move and my front chain was .05 out of line with the rear sprocket. The chain was nipping the edge of the teeth on the chain links, Been striped since 10K and dealer had missed it twice under warranty, I fixed it at 30K still under 5 year extended warrant but dealer would not honor warranty since I brought the parts in and had taken it apart. After I went to a manager he gave me 10% off on parts. By that time I had pissed everyone off (an I am pretty easy going but I had already paid them twice the $50 minimum fee for warranty work) I did not want them to work on it anymore.

 

Need to find out pretty quick. A chain tensioner broke on my 88 and destroyed the lower end.

 

I 100% agree. I would not drive it till a pro or you if you fill qualified at least listened to it. They can stand a lot of trash floating around in them but it's not good for oil pump to grind metal and the inner cam bearing get splash lube somewhat since there is about a few inches of oil spun by crank balance wheels (crankshaft) even though it is a dry sump engine.

 

YES..
The tennsioners on an 88''er can go anywhere from 20k miles and up.
U need to have it checked Yesterday. IF U can't do it for sure have someone do it before it takes out the bottom end.


Also come back and let us know what the problem was.





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The only way to improve things like this is to name the dealer.

 

You can't tell about cam bearings or the inner chain tensioner by just removing the cam chest cover. It is impossible to see what is necessary to see for ALL of the inner tensioner shoe with the cam support plate in place.

Minimally, if your stethoscope test leads you there (good suggestions) you need to cut the pushrods and then install adjustable ones after you pull apart the cam support plate and look at the tensioners and cam bearings. I would strongly recommend against doing this without a shop manual.

OTOH if you are looking for an excuse to put in a new cam and money isn't a problem then get an Andrews or S&S cam support kit (NOT the HD Screamin' Eagle), inner torrington bearings, and your choice on the pushrods. Probably a good idea to put in new lifters also. IF you pull the valve covers you can put in the upgraded PCV vavles which seem to help the amount of blowby dripping on your engine from your air cleaner.

(Adjustable push rods make checking your cam bearings, tensioner shoes, etc. a simple and economical maintenance check later.)

My buck fitty...

C#