Polishing front fork lowers
#21
02-04-2013, 05:10 AM
I did mine with mothers too and looks nice. I don't see how you managed with 1000 grit paper though. There's no way 1000 grit will not leave scratches. I finished with 3000 before the mothers. I think you messed up by using 200 grit to take off the clearcoat. That must have left some horrible scratches. Would have been easier to use paint stripper and half the time.
I've done 4 or 5 so far. Stripper to remove clearcoat. Start sanding all the roughness with 1500 wet, then 2000 wet then finish with 3000 wet. The 3000 actually start to shine it up. Finish with mothers and good to go.
try hitting it with 2000 and a final sand with 3000. Then hit it with the Mothers. I guarantee you the difference will be nice. Not knocking your effort, you just never got started the right way. Try finishing with 3000.
I've done 4 or 5 so far. Stripper to remove clearcoat. Start sanding all the roughness with 1500 wet, then 2000 wet then finish with 3000 wet. The 3000 actually start to shine it up. Finish with mothers and good to go.
try hitting it with 2000 and a final sand with 3000. Then hit it with the Mothers. I guarantee you the difference will be nice. Not knocking your effort, you just never got started the right way. Try finishing with 3000.
#22
02-04-2013, 07:28 AM
With ref to stailjim61 post... I think you didn't notice I used 0000 steel wool and rubbing compound (which is equivalent to 2000 to 2500 paper). When you combine that with a cotton wheel on a drill and the rubbing compound which generates the heat to cut thru the fine scratches but leaves a dull finish. The mothers polish, again combined with the cotton wheel and drill you are left with a mirror finish. To explain the use of 200 paper to remove the clear finish, this also removes nicks that made it thru the clear coat and marked the alum. I'm not trying to start a pi$$ing contest, the method works and the results are flawless.
#23
02-04-2013, 07:58 AM
#24
02-04-2013, 08:15 AM
Extreme HDF Member
That looks like sooooo much work. I guess I just do not have the time, even in the winter. It will take me less time to work and make the cash for the chromed lowers. That being said, if I had the time ad the patience, it would be great to be able to point to those and know that you did it.
#25
02-04-2013, 08:34 AM
Man thats alot of work guys. Take a spray bottle with some soapy water, spray on any chrome. Wipe/rub with some 4 ot steel wool(like $5 from home depot). Spray it off with water and dry then buff with a microfiber towel. U will be amazed at the shine you get. Here's my wheels after doing that. The close up shows the left side before and the right side is after
#26
02-04-2013, 09:29 AM
That looks like sooooo much work. I guess I just do not have the time, even in the winter. It will take me less time to work and make the cash for the chromed lowers. That being said, if I had the time ad the patience, it would be great to be able to point to those and know that you did it.
#27
02-04-2013, 09:57 AM
That's why I chose this way. I had a Fatboy with chromed lowers and it had quite a few rock chips and there was nothing I could do about it.
#29
02-04-2013, 05:06 PM
#30
02-04-2013, 06:24 PM
Road Captain
I took my entire fork tubes to a professional polisher here in town, I didn't even take them apart. They came out awesome and was done in 2 hours, and he only charged me $40. This dude has a giant 3 phase huge *** buffing wheel and does industrial ****.
Much easier than wasting hours hand sanding and buffing with a drill.
Much easier than wasting hours hand sanding and buffing with a drill.