Turnsignal Relocation Kit, and an FLS Slim
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01-07-2013 | 06:45 AM
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From: Hampshire, England
Turnsignal Relocation Kit, and an FLS Slim
A word (or two) of caution if you’re thinking of fitting the rear indicator relocation kit (54296-11) to your Softail Slim.
It won’t fit…
Well, I’ve just done it, but it was tricky, on the following points.
First, the cable from the indicator is separate to the fitting for the stalk, it’s a ‘blind’ hole into the indicator body. This means you can’t feed the wire through the hollowed out replacement stalk.
Fair enough.
The plastic shield which covers the indicator flange therefore needs a 4mm hole drilled in it, for the cable to come out. Or you could buy the different shields – I only found out about this, through the instructions.
Drilling the holes seemed easier.
Also, where the tapered lock nut bears against the indicator (to lock it in place) the fit of the plastic shield is sloppy. I made up two aluminium spacers 2.5mm thick, 12mm diameter, so the shield is centralised properly and the lock nut tightens against the indicator itself, instead of the plastic shield, which could/would have broken.
The metal plate which covers the original holes in the frame rail, and bolts under the indicator stalk also needs a hole (and grommet) for the wire to pass through.
The slotted nut is pretty naff. Locking it with a 3/8 Allen key won’t really allow you to get it good and tight. Use a proper 5/16 UNC nut instead, then you’ll be able to get a socket to it.
The good news, though, is that you don’t need to cut the electrical connectors from the ends of the cables!!
Andy
’95 XLH 883
’13 Slim
Hampshire
England
It won’t fit…
Well, I’ve just done it, but it was tricky, on the following points.
First, the cable from the indicator is separate to the fitting for the stalk, it’s a ‘blind’ hole into the indicator body. This means you can’t feed the wire through the hollowed out replacement stalk.
Fair enough.
The plastic shield which covers the indicator flange therefore needs a 4mm hole drilled in it, for the cable to come out. Or you could buy the different shields – I only found out about this, through the instructions.
Drilling the holes seemed easier.
Also, where the tapered lock nut bears against the indicator (to lock it in place) the fit of the plastic shield is sloppy. I made up two aluminium spacers 2.5mm thick, 12mm diameter, so the shield is centralised properly and the lock nut tightens against the indicator itself, instead of the plastic shield, which could/would have broken.
The metal plate which covers the original holes in the frame rail, and bolts under the indicator stalk also needs a hole (and grommet) for the wire to pass through.
The slotted nut is pretty naff. Locking it with a 3/8 Allen key won’t really allow you to get it good and tight. Use a proper 5/16 UNC nut instead, then you’ll be able to get a socket to it.
The good news, though, is that you don’t need to cut the electrical connectors from the ends of the cables!!
Andy
’95 XLH 883
’13 Slim
Hampshire
England
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