I read a lot of the PCIII threads, but I still am on the fence. I had a lot of work done on my bike last spring; heads, cam, big bore, thunderheader, and the dealer did one of their flash uploads. It runs ok. It could be a little smoother. It hesitates a little, then takes off like a rocket.

I have 2 questions: 1) Will PCIII make it run smoother? 2) Will PCIII give it a little more power, maybe help the upgrades be all they can be?

Anyone have any luck with an installer/dynotuner in Maryland? I've heard a few good things about Frederick HD. Anyone use them?

Thanks.

 

First question... do you want to diddle with the tuning or pay someone to do it?

My answer works for either case, I think, but it isn't first cost cheap.

Since you have stuck that much money in your bike already, I would seriously consider a ThunderMax ECM with possibly the autotune module. It will cost you quite a few bucks, but it appears (I say this because I haven't ever used one) that when it's all said and done, replacing the HD ECM entirely along with having O2 sensors (the autotune module) will provide the best performance and tuning that you can get. It is also a neater install, ultimately. You can set the bike up on a dyno if you don't like their maps but I'm guessing that you can get close enough that the autotuner will take care of the rest.

I only say this after investing $500 bucks in a used PCIII and a dyno tune from a dynotek approved dealer. I am very happy with the PCIII and the only way that your bike will run at its best is to get the bike dyno'd. You can't do anything with a dyno until you have a programmable ECM, which a stock HD is not.

In my naievete' I assumed that I wouldn't need a dyno until I got finished with my performance mods. That wasn't the case (I couldn't stand not having the bike at peak performance) so now, when I do my cams. or my heads, or my jugs, or whatever... I get to have the bike dyno'd at $280 each time, all over again. WITH THAT IN MIND the Thundermax with an autotuner would have been a better choice as long as I heard good things about it from some others.

There are a lot of people who seem to think that O2 sensors are a bad thing (which is what the autotuner uses). I know a lot of guys that are hot rodders that think that, too. The new performance cars from the manufacturers are convincing them otherwise, when they take the time to notice. If your bike already has O2 sensors (I don't recall what you have) then no big deal. If it doesn't, the bungs and sensors for your exhaust come with the autotuner.

C#

 

I just removed my Dynotuned PC3 from my 07 Fatboy. I was having problems with the bike stuttering. I'm going to ride it today to see if I even notice the extra power the PC3 gave.

 

Thanks for the input gentlemen...I did a little reading on the Thundermax system tonight- it sounds like a good product. I don't think my thunderheader has bungs for O2 sensors. That autotune sounds really cool.

Has anyone installed bungs on their exhaust system before? I don't weld...so I would probably have to take it to a shop.

 

Yes, you would need to remove your pipes after marking where you want the bungs installed and have a shop drill the pipes and weld in the bungs. It is a relatively simple thing... any good muffler shop can handle it for you. Look on an '07 to see where HD is putting the O2 sensors. I have heard that about 6" out from the heads is best... but I'm not an expert on HD exhaust by any means. I wouldn't leave them on the bike but if you don't feel comfortable taking the pipes off (you just have to be careful with the chrome... the headers are easy if you have the right tools, then have an HD mechanic (indy or otherwise) do the work.

As for Faction95's comments, you aren't going to get a lot of power difference from just installing a PCIII unless you dyno the bike from my experience. All mine did with a stock map (they didn't have an exact match for my bike) was make mine run so rich that I thought I was going to go broke when gas went over $3... I don't know their philosopy intimately, but if it were me, anything that I handed out for a novice to run would be rich... just to be safe.

The best performance comes from the best mix of air and fuel where you want the bike to run most of the time. If you want to drag race, then you set the curves up one way. If you want to cruise long distance, then you try to get a perfect A/F in the 2500 to 2500 rpm range. If you are always running the boulevard, then you want quick throttle response and good mileage without the bike getting hot. A custom map will be set up for the best of all worlds possible for most of us, however.

 

Well I rode around yesterday without the PC3. So its just a regular "Stage 1", SE Air Filter, V&H BSS, and factory ECU remap A.K.A. "Download". The bike ran great. No popping or back firing. I think it is running a little hotter by about 10 degrees or so. But the best part about it is there was no stuttering!

Overall I like the PC3 but it just didn't like my bike.