I didn't want to steal someone elses thread on a cam question. Want to change out my cams on an 06 Fat Boy. Is it difficult to do it yourself or should it be done by a shop? I am guessing that the bike will have to be re-dynoed after the install? Thanks for any tips and advice...

 

If you had it dyno-ed before, it might be a good idea to have it done again. I didn't do a dyno on mine. On my tuner, I just cleared the off-sets after the install and let it auto-tune itself again. Runs REAL strong.

The install wasn't hard. Here's a couple links you can look at and gauge for yourself whether you want to do it or have have a shop do it.

Here is a write-up by a forum member. I referred to it many times during the install.

And here is a video by J&P Cycles. Watched this thru a couple times as well.


One thing I did differently than this write-up and video was use strong little magnets to keep my lifters in place instead of the clips. The clips didn't work for me. It will become apparent how to use them once you have the pushrods out.

Good luck.

 

Its not difficult, just take some time patience. I reused the original push rods. Takes more time but saves money plus never have to worry about correct adjustment and coming loose. No dyno, using a Dobeck DFO/TFI. A 2n1 made a sop diff also.

 

I'm going to add a question to this thread since it's on the topic.. the cam bearing removal tool.. did you guys buy one ($115-175), fabricate one, or just find some way of taking the old bearings out?

As for the insertion tool..I keep reading "Use an old cam and a rubber mallet and they'll slide in to place just fine.".. input?

 

I never did before this spring. Got the tools from Heartland in Chicago for $115 for both tools and new Timken bearings. Took me about 5 hours. I have seen in here that auto parts stores that rent tools have removers that work, but I have no experience there. I've seen in here that process used SGT_Jim, I suppose a real careful person could do it that way. As my handle says, I am a machinist and confident in my abilities and still bought the tools to do it. You could always sell them when done. My opinion is it is worth both the time and the $600-$700 installation fee to it yourself. Besides, it was fun.

 

Auto zone blind hole bearing puller, free rental. Used old cams and small rubber mallet, gently tapped them in. Assy lube first.

 

+1 on reusing the oem pushrods. I had to get towed and readjust the pushrods after they werent done by the mechanic, but hell I guess that it was good that I paid attention or i would have been up that creek with no paddle. Still getting a little bit of drivetrain noise, but that might be due to the new cam, different pushrods, or the synthetic oil that i changed in it after the install.

 

+1 on the Heartland tools. They're a good value and don't add that much to the overall cost and you can resell them after the install if you want. You can also get them on eBay (where I got mine).
I don't recommend reusing the stock pushrods for 2 reasons:
1. It makes the job more laborious in that you have to remove your heads to pull and reuse the stock ones.
2. Stock pushrods will make noise with some aftermarket cams.
If you use good chromoly adjustables and install/adjust them right, they will work just as well or better than the stock ones. They'll never come loose and you'll never need to worry.
I also do not recommend using the old cam/mallet trick to install the new bearings. If you're gonna spend the money for upgraded bearings (presumably to last longer), do the job RIGHT and use an install tool. Again, 2 reasons:
1. You'll make absolutely certain the bearing goes in straight.
2. A tool will countersink the bearing the several thousands of an inch the way it's supposed to be installed.
JMO, but do what you like and follow the opinions you like. That's what this forum is all about and it's your bike.

 

I put about $900 including the tools and adjustable pushrods into mine. Just can't see paying someone $600-$700 to do it unless you're totally inept.

 

Wow. About $700, here, including pushrods, gaskets, tools and shipping for everything to Japan. Maybe it was the exchange rate. The yen went a long way in the U.S. back then (a little over a year ago). Goes an even longer way now...
BTW, costs about 1500 usd to have somebody do it in Japan, so I REALLY feel I came out on top...