BTW. What do you guys know about the SE 255 cams? Do they compare to the Woods?

 

Just go to the dyno thread in here and U'll see.

255's are mostly used in Heavy loaded up touring bikes to get them moving and improve the passing when they are loaded, but fall off faster and more than most other cams.
IMO lots of better choices for a softtail.

In the right build that meets Ur needs most Woods cams will be among the top cam pics every time if U want the highest Numbers. but at a premium price vs others.




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Thanks. I read everything I could find on the subject; here and other places on the net. Lots of opinions and a wealth of knowledge.

Just for fun I talked to the techs at the dealer. They all seemed to like the Andrews and Woods offerings but then cautioned me about catching crap during warranty if any tuning issues come up. My thoughts at the moment are to buy the SE255 with the bike (plus stage 1 AC and pipes), then do some headwork and a cam swap after the warranty expires. The Street Bob will be my only vehicle other than my wife's car. I'll be putting 10-12k a year on the bike just going to work and back + the weekend stuff. I figure two years in is a good time to do the work and get it fresh again.

 

Go with woods and don't look back, I had my choices between se203 I think it was and the woods, se where $150 cheaper. But waited 2 months on back order. Cancelled order woods 555 had them in 2 days. Then looking at dyno #'s glad I went with what I did. Really think with some head work, and stock 96" jugs with higher comp will be a nasty motor. Figure when that stage comes might as well save jugs as long as I can. Rather than going 107 right away.

 

here's something from FuelMoto

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/7769022-post68.html


from a 96" Streetglide with 2-1 mufflers, PCV:


blue line is the SE255's, red line is the TW555's

 

The smart thing to do would be to put the money back in your cookie jar until you can do both. Do it all at once and get it tuned right the first time. You'll accomplish a few things by doing it this way. One is you'll use what you already paid for a little longer. Next, the one piece at a time has been proven by many to not be the right approach. Yes, some get lucky, but most bitch and complain when the performance isn't there or they can't get a good tune out of it. Basically the blame goes to mismatched parts. Lastly, by doing it all at once you have a chance to buy a kit that has been a proven good match of parts. And, in most cases this equated to less cost than if you tried to piecemeal it together one piece at a time. One piece at a time worked for Johnny Cash but not so good for us. I say chill out and wait until you can afford the entire setup at one time. **** by then you will have changed your mind or the next latest and greatest setup will be out. You need patience to get it right.

 

Btw.. I just did some math on the 107" kit..

$1299 includes:
Forged Pistons and rings
Bored cylinders (core exchange)
Cams
Wood Directional Lifters
FM Quick Install Pushrods
gaskets/o-rings/torrington bearings..right?

Okay.. now after snooping around the internet, here's the individual prices I found:

http://www.woodcarbs.com/Retail%20Prices0105.pdf
Wood Cams.. the 222's, 555's, 777's are all the same price.. $390
Wood Directional Lifters - $260 according to Wood's PDF

Gaskets/O-rings/Bearings - $49.95 (call it $50) http://fuelmotousa.com/cams.htm

FM Quick Install pushrods - $139.95 (call it $140) http://fuelmotousa.com/pushrods.htm

107" Pistons I couldn't find an exact price.. I've seen a few listed for $280, then I've seen the Knight Prowler Pistons listed in Wood's pdf for $388, but just for S&G's, lets go low-end and call it $280..

So right now, you have:
390+260+50+140+280 = $1120.

Now lets say you keep your cylinders and just receive FM's..that's a $299 charge.. so call it $1250+299.. whatever.

Now lets say you send them your cylinders for the core exchange, so you don't pay the $299 charge. That means you're basically getting your cylinders bored out for $170.

Now factor in shipping, which they told me was something like $50. So you're looking at $1299(The whole kit)+$50+tax.

Okay, now lets talk head work. And lets talk Level B, since that's the money maker apparently.. $799 + $30 return shipping, so call it $830 + cost of shipping your cylinders/heads/whatever to FM..and just for more S's&G's (which for those who haven't guessed is ***** & grins) lets throw in the $100 compression releases.

So $1299+$50+$830+$100+tax for the entire thing.. when it's broken down piece by piece.. it really doesn't sound that bad. And now I'm almost leaning towards doing the entire thing in 1 shot.

 

I'd rather run the stock cams in a Street Bob. 255's are the WRONG cam for that bike. You'll have stock bikes running away from you. If you're worried about the warranty leave the bike alone. I don't understand why some of you guys are so quick to screw with these bikes if you don't have a clue what you want from it. Just ride it and leave it alone until you know what you want. Throw some pipes on it and enjoy it for awhile. Especially if this is your sole source of getting around.

 

I managed to save enough coin to do the 107 kit. However, I've been thinking.... (Oh no)

I'm thinking I will just do the cams first. Reason is less out of pocket at first. Money isn't really the issue though. Here's my reasoning. Doing the cams just might give me the extra poop I'm looking for. Why go through such a major overhaul if the cams wakes the thing up nicely???

Sure, I may still not be happy after the cams and end up doing the big bore kit. I will have spent more in the long run. Don't tell Sgt. Jim. But for me, I think going about this incrementally is the way to go.

 

Actually, I know exactly what I want from it. 90% of my riding is small town/little city, short trips with occasional weekend jaunts on the sweet backroads of Georgia. Hell, even Daytona is only three hours by interstate or 4.5 on the good roads.

I want torque. All this talk about HP on a Harley is a little counter intuitive. Yes, you can do it, but why put your power in the higher end of the range unless you ride in the upper end a lot. I was just riding my buddies 2012 Fat Bob today with a similar setup. He's got V&H Long Shots and a Kury intake with the 255. Pulls hard on the streets I ride.

I think I'll take the added kick of the 255 rather than live with stock stage 1 for the first two years.