Thanks for all the help!!!!!! Do you put the flux on right before you solder??? Should I go back and redo the 3 wires that I did without the the Flux (as it wouldn't be that big of a deal at this point)?

 

If you didn't use flux, or flux core solder its a sure bet they will not last too long the way they are now, or work in a circuit properly. When your soldering wires the hot wire should suck the solder in like a sponge, filling all the spaces between the wire strandsalmost from the inside out.

A good rule of thumb when soldering is when the joint looks like its shiney, almost wet even after its cooled, its properly soldered. If the solder looks like bubbles or puddles ON the wires then you have a problem, its called a cold solder joint. The wires maybe stuck together, but its not going to stay that way very long. Especially with all the vibration its likely to see on in bike like a Harley.

Its fairly easy to tell just by looking if its good, and if your joints look like the one on that web site I posted you'll be fine.

 

Got it! I'll redo the wires that I started and pick up the Flux today. Just so I get this straight, Flux on the wires, Solder following the link you sent, then after it cools clear nail polish, once dried shrink wrap, in that order? Anything else I'll need?

 

I've been soldering wires and electronic stuff since I was a kid and never used solder that required separate flux. Not sure why you would even use this stuff on small wiring. Yeah I've had a few bad or cold solder joints but far and few between. It's more about the technique most of thew time.

Go to Radio Shack and get some decent solder for electronics and you shouold be OK without the hassle of using separateFlux.

http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm


Mike
NY

 

The man is absolutly right, I haven't used soldering flux on anything smaller than copper bathroom or kitchen plumbing in a very long time. Probably becasue I still have at least5 or so poundsof the good electronic stuff left over from the "good old days", when we used to have to change individual components on the logic boards.
These days my TIME is more valuable to the company than the parts I might be able to troubleshoot and repair by changing individual parts. Its easier, simpler, and MUCH cheaper to swap out whole logic assemblies and scrap the old one.
Just get some solder with the flux in it and you'll be fine. If you think you need to I would get a four or fivefeet of wire. Cut it into pieces and practice soldering them together. After you do a few you'll see that its not rocket science, it just takes a little bit of practice to do quickly and accuratly. Its a lot easier than MIG welding, more like really low temp brazing.
Just make sure you use a clean tinned soldering tip, onclean wire and you'll have no trouble at all.

BTW you had the order right, you can eliminate the flux part with the right flux filled solder.
Good Luck, and watch your fingers, its easy to think its not hot when things harden, but it will still be hot enough to burn you good for aminute or two.

 

Thanks for all the help! Got about half of the wires soldered last night. Ended up having solder that did not have rosin core and it was way too thick. Next problem will be to get the stripped bolt off of the tank (rear one) but I guess that is another thread to start when I get there!

 

Excellent post Citori. Very helpful. Thanks man.

 

DON'T move the connection until the solder has set. Just a few seconds will do fine. If you move it and the solder moves at the joint you will have a cold solder joint and it will fail or corrode. If, after it cools, it is still shiney, it's fine, if it is a dull gray, it has crystalized and is a cold joint. Just reheat the joint and make sure not to move it until cool. This doesn't mean cool to the touch, just cool enough that the solder is set.

Jim