I'm in the process of doing a cam swap. Have got to the point of trying to remove the Cam Chest cover (10 screws are out already). It will NOT budge!!!

I've rapped it with a rubber mallet several times, tried carefully prying on it, tried pulling on "fake" timing cover screws (after I had that cover off, AND NOTHING seems to make it look like it is ever going to move.

Anybody got any ideas?????? I have all parts and tools ready to complete the job and the bike is down till I can finish.....

Please help this shade tree mechanic.

Thanks, D

BTW - it's an '06 DLX and I suspect the cover has never been off. Has 10,000 miles on it but no apparent corrosion of any kind.

 

They can get pretty sticky. Maybe you can get a screwdriver behind the timing cover if it's loose enough and get some leverage. Otherwise just give it a few more strategically placed raps with the rubber mallet and get 'er done.

 

SUCCESS!!!

I heated it up with the Heat gun and hit it once or twice and one side broke free. Very sticky gasket.


Thanks, D

 

Cool. I want to do my cams soon, so have been reading up on the change-out process. Please post any more lessons learned you run into.

 

Couple of things to think about:

1) if you can, plan on an Oil and filter change at the same time. When you pull the Cam Support Plate off, the "feed" to the Oil pump will open up. Mine continued to drain until I could fashion a plug for it. Still "lost" almost 2 quarts of oil.

2) Borrow the Blind Hole Baring puller from AutoZone ( I did and it works great for free). The "Kit" from their loaner tools has 4 mandrels in it and the next one up from the smallest will open up to fit nicely inside the bearing with just a little "space" to move around. You do have to tighten it all the way but it works well and will not damage the bearings (no lost rollers in the Crank Case!)

3) Throw the new bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours (overnight works well) and then just put plenty of Assembly lube on them when you install. They go in like butter that way.

4) I took my laptop out to the garage and queued up the J&P video of the Cam change (it's on a 96 but works well). I then just followed along stopping the video where necessary.

5) Put some assembly lube on the new "O" rings for the oil pump and passages and it will hold them in place while to line up the Cam Support plate. I just rotated the engine via the back wheel while wiggling the cam plate and the Geo rotors slipped right on that way. You have to get the Oil pump and the back of the Cams into their holes all at the same time.

I did the Cams one evening and taking my time ( very slowly) used up 4 to 5 hours (including tear down time). I then put the push rods in the next morning . Don't forget to let the Tappets bleed down before moving to the next one. If you put the Intake PR's in first, there is more room for your fingers to work.

Let me know if I can answer any questions, D

 

I learned that adjustable pushrods are not the same as ez install pushrods. I learned that the magnetic lifter tool would probably work better than the bent paper clamp handles - but the clamps handles do work. I used the oil pump alignment pins and procedure but did not learn what happens if you just bolt the pump back on without them. I learned to be careful to keep track of which screws go where (I did). I learned the value of rubber bands and paper clips to keep the PR tubes out of the way. It is all on these forums, which I learned are very good.

 

Mine wouldn't budge until I took out ALL the screws and pointed a heat gun at each hole the screws came from thus heating up the gasket around the holes.


Then an easy tap with a rubber mallet and BINGO!


Sitting here letting it all cool off before I stick my hands in there and go look at the condition of my plastic fantastic cam chain shoes...