Thanks for your services Hal. You should however use a battery tender when your bike sits and not in use for awhile. I typically ride to work during the week (weather permiting) as well, but sometimes I don't get to ride much on the weekends due to some projects on the house I'm doing and I'm still on my original battery (2008 Softail). I still think you have an issue with your charging system but you will have to let us know what you find.
Good luck!

 

I want to know where you got these facts from?

14.2 at any RPM ... NO
13 -13.5 volts = issues with stator ... NO

If you idle your bike below 1100 rpms you typically will not produce enough voltage from the stator to keep the system charged. As a matter of fact those who idle their bikes down to 850 / 900 rpms often will see on a voltage meter that the battery is not getting a proper charging voltage, it actually will drop into the 10 to 11 volt range, or be discharging more than its recharging.

The voltage that you should have when idling is between 13 and 13.5 volts, a little higher is fine but not by much or you will cook the battery.

Get a service manual for your bike to understand what it's supposed to do and not do according to the manufacturer.

It all depends on the make, model and year as to what the specs should be and that can be found searching online. But your own service manual is really the answer for anyone who has ever considered working on their own ride.

 

I disagree with you Johnny. The charging voltage for a 6 cell battery (which is what auto batteries are) needs to be at a minimum of 2.2v just to charge it with now load. The r/r is supposed to keep a steady charge rate of 2.4v per cell or 14.4V to maintain the voltage drop caused by the load of the bike running and still charge the battery. Basic battery maintainence really, pull out your fluke and measure your cars voltage while running.

And a good r/r is supposed to Maintain a steady voltage at any rpm, fluctuating at most a few millivolts up or down not fluctuating all over the place.

But you might be right, all the research I've done while building my last bikes LiFePo4 battery must be wrong. And all the battery techs and engineers at my work must be wrong, they just help keep the electrical grid going in southeastern MI, they don't know ****.

 

Don't take it so personal and blow this all out of proportion.

Certainly an efficient recharge system should put out a steady voltage, but in the real world Harley's Don't. As they drop RPMs to a point where the output is less than the battery's charge. That's one reason why idle speed is so important. And that's why there are so many aftermarket, improved systems available.

And it doesn't matter to me as it relates to cars, or how many bike batteries you personally hand built, or how many technicians you feel have all the knowledge in the world .... It's about Harley's.

All statistics, regarding Harley's are what I learned from the manufacturer's service manual while renovating and upgrading my bike, including a full overhaul and upgrade of the charging system.

I will admit to only knowing what I know about bikes and how it applies to most all factory Harley systems. My concern is the statistics you were telling someone else his Harley requires to be working correctly.

Being involved as a mechanic for 43 years really doesn't count for anything, not even my auto mechanic training and education, or years of hands on trouble shooting & repairing. I still don't know it all.

Step by Step Instructions for Testing Your Harley’s Charging System

1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).

• AC Output Check:

• Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
• Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
• Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
• The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
• Generic Specs:

• 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
• 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
• 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm

• Stator Resistance Check:

• Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
• Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
• Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
• Generic Specs:

• 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
• 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
• 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms

• Stator IB test or Ground Check:

• Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
• Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
• There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
• If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.

5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.

• Identifying Wires:

• Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
• AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
• Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.

• Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).

• Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.

• Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
• Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
• Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
• The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
• Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
• The reading should be Infinite.
• With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
• The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
• Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
• The reading should be Infinite.

 

If and when you change out your Stator, also change out your reg....
Good place to get Stator/reg....
cycleelectricinc.com
Have your indy order the parts.

 

I think if we are going to help tlar1540 learn how & what to check we need to leave personal feelings out of the equation here.

Batteries & electrical system problems are not an exact science and the method to troubleshoot are diverse as to where to start and the method on how to get to the problem.

Good points have been discussed here so don't loose track and keep on point if we are to help others discover trouble shooting electrical problems.

 

Just check the charging system, also make sure all wires are tight at the connection point. The science don't matter, something is apparently wrong with it somewhwere. Just find it and fix it.