2Black1s procedure is correct. It's not exactly Rocket Science but you do have to follow the process to the letter 100% of the time . . . if not . . . you get to start over again from the beginning.

As for "Old Brake Fluid." Old Brake Fluid is NOT a problem . . . what IS a problem is that brake fluid is Hygroscopic. Hygroscopic means that it will absorb water, and it can even do this from the humidity (moisture) in the air. It can, and will also do this right through the Brake Lines and past the Brake System Seals which is why you're supposed to replace it every year or two. Thus, if a container of Brake Fluid is left open for any length of time it will eventually contain some amount of Water in it. There are many problems with having even very tiny amounts of Water in a brake system; such as: Water turns to steam at 212*F and your Brake Fluid can and will get significantly hotter than this. DOT4 Boils at roughly 550*F which is one reason you use it. When water turns to steam it is now a gas that takes up so much room that it will force some of the brake fluid back into the Master Cylinder Reservoir . . . and now you will NOT have any brakes. Since this will occur only when the Brake Fluid exceeds 212*F, this means that you have probably been using your brakes a bit, and in all likelihood you will be in a situation where you need to continue using them . . . so this problem waits and only will raise it's ugly head right about the time you REALLY need your brakes the most! Such as in the middle of coming down a long hill or after repeated hard stops when riding in a particularly spirited fashion. Also, Water in combination with the Brake Fluid will form acids which will, over time, damage the Master Cylinder and Caliper bores, the Caliper Pistons, etc., etc.