S&S has the quickie pushrods that can be installed with an assembled engine.
http://www.sscycle.com/feature/featureview.php?s_id=39
Problem with these if you want to get real technical is they are going to be thin.

An adjustable is only going to save time if your in and out a lot imho.
I have my stock pushrods in my engine with hq500 cams and a thinner head gasket.
I don't know what cams that the base circle is different but I'm sure the builder of them would so I would just ask. Since my head gasket is thinner it's just pushing the lifters in a bit more which has actually made it a bit quieter.

If you buy zippers pushrods their install is a bit different.
They have you bottom our your lifters completely and then back it off a few turns.

The main thing with adjustables it figuring out where your cam is.

The method I found that worked for me.
Lets say you are doing the front cylinder.
Have the pushrod covers supported so you can see the pushrods.
Mark them with a white marker so you can actually see them move.
Spark plugs removed.
Rotate the engine in 6th gear.
Watch the rear pushrods and as the outter rod goes down and the inner rod goes up stop. You are now on the compression stroke and the front cylinder cam should be on base circle.
Take a flash light and a straw and stick it in the front spark plug hole.
Rotate the engine ever so slightly as the piston gets all the way to the top.
Now you should be able to adjust your front cylinder pushrods.
Most pushrods have you adjust down until you hit the lifter then go a certain amount more. Once done walk away for about an hour and wait for them to bleed down.
Come back and see if you can spin both with your finger, if not wait longer.

Do the same for the rear cylinder.

 

OH yes.. They are the "easy install". it just wasn't that easy..

I got these:

http://www.fuelmotousa.com/pushrods.htm

 

These on the other hand are only 2 piece and would be MUCH easier imho..

http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=23351

I'm not knocking FuelMoto at all.. they are an awesome company.. and other people might have better luck than I did.. it's just with the 3 piece PRs and the limited space to work in AND the fact you've got time against you with the loctite.. it was tough for me.

 

Yes, even with stock pushrods when you put the engine together you do these with the cam on base circle.

Reason.
You removed the rockers, when you did this you really should have the particular cylinder on base circle. If you don't the pressure from the valve's is on this assembly and could cause injury and damage to your bike.
Even cutting a pushrod you should put it on base circle first. If you cut a pushrod without it on base circle it's going to slam the pushrod down into the motor and possibly you.
Base circle isn't that hard if you follow my other instructions...

 

Why do you wait for the lifter to bleed down you might ask?

With the exhaust off you can see much better.
Once you have the pushrods in (stock even) and the rockers tq'd down and the piston at tdc on the compression stroke you will notice the exhaust and intake valves are open a bit. Moving the piston could result in a valve hitting the piston. As it bleeds down, these will close all the way and you are good to rotate.

 

I'm going to get me some fancy book learnin' and figure out what you all are talking about.

For now I'm going to git back to my whittlin'.

But seriously,

I really enjoy reading these threads. I watched a couple of videos tied in with a few links on this thread and while this is far over my head for the time being I'm learning things from you folks big time, and I enjoy learning new technical things about my bike and engine. Working on my bike is almost half the fun.