Fatboy fluids question
#31
Give me a break...he changes the motor oil every 3000 miles and other 2 at 6000...Put the KOOLAID cup down man....Castrol would be out of business if their products was as bad as you make it out to be....Many members here use it and have rode hundreds of thousands of miles with it...
#32
I said I wouldn't use it because I thinks it's inferior to at least 10 or more choices,test proven. Your the one saying he'll be fine under any conditions with castrol as long as he changes it. Also Less rust and wear protection provided. I'll stick with the test results I didn't make castrol out to be bad, the scientific test did.
I do use Full Syn but the Auto kind...The V-twin is ok if you're gonna use it in all 3 holes but i don't so a Automtive 15w50 or 20w50 is fine...
Most mFG's put V-twin on a bottle and charge 3-4 dollars more...
I found my bike shifts ok with HD Formula + and it's easy to get.
LIke i said also...oil is a very personal choice...
#33
I also agree with that.
The statement at the end of the study:
"The cost difference between the average price for motorcycle oils and the most expensive oils is less than $15 per oil change. If the performance of an oil can support an extended oil change interval, that cost is reduced.
The consumer must consider the performance and benefits offered by an oil and how those benefits affect their motorcycle investment to determine the oil’s value.
The statement at the end of the study:
"The cost difference between the average price for motorcycle oils and the most expensive oils is less than $15 per oil change. If the performance of an oil can support an extended oil change interval, that cost is reduced.
The consumer must consider the performance and benefits offered by an oil and how those benefits affect their motorcycle investment to determine the oil’s value.
In conclusion, maximum performance and cost effectiveness are obtained when one looks beyond marketing claims and selects a product based on the data that supports it
".
This is why I offered the study for those seeking information to assist in making a decision.
This is why I offered the study for those seeking information to assist in making a decision.
#34
Yeah, i've read the white papers and Bob the oil guy and looked at the videos til i was blue in the face...well actually after 3 bourbons...I then just rode the **** out of my bike again...LOL...Freaking data can make you head spin...Also can start heated arguments...Over freakin oil...go figure.
#35
Guys, It was not my intent to cause friction...I apologise.
I will probably upgrade to a better 20W50 oil next change. just not sure I'll do a $14.00 a quart synthetic although it is cool that aparently there is no problems going from dino to synth in a harley. having it run cooler in the HOT Florida summer does appeal to me.
thanks again for all the input.
I will probably upgrade to a better 20W50 oil next change. just not sure I'll do a $14.00 a quart synthetic although it is cool that aparently there is no problems going from dino to synth in a harley. having it run cooler in the HOT Florida summer does appeal to me.
thanks again for all the input.
#36
**** son....takes a whole lot more griping and bitchin to get us pissed off here...this ain't www.hdtalking.com after all...It's all good.
#37
Join Date: Aug 2011
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ok. so if I put shocvkproof in my tranny, can I put royal purple in my primary without it causing any problems...I know with stock HD lube the Primary / tranny fluids are interchangable?
Notgrownup, I change my engine oil every 3000 miles and I do primary and tranny every other oil change.
Notgrownup, I change my engine oil every 3000 miles and I do primary and tranny every other oil change.
#39
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Give me a break...he changes the motor oil every 3000 miles and other 2 at 6000...Put the KOOLAID cup down man....Castrol would be out of business if their products was as bad as you make it out to be....Many members here use it and have rode hundreds of thousands of miles with it...
Oil is oil guys. Yes there are products with better basestocks and stronger additive packages but if you are changing any oil at 3000 miles then you aren't even close to depleting the add pack or running out the TBN.
The royal purple comment is funny. Using it showed the poster that he has a gasket problem that he chose to ignore. Even if it isn't leaking with a different oil the gasket is obviously compromised.
Every virgin oil analysis I have seen in different weights of royal purple has shown it's additive packages to be very stout indeed. The racing varieties have an assload of moly and zddp,but low sodium(cleaning agent). The API verified versions are actually scaled down versions with more cleaning agents.
These oil threads are entertaining. I use amsoil,mobil 1 on occasion,would love to have a stockpile of red line but it's hard to come by locally.
Any modern oil will protect an engine to the 3000 mile minimum. Kool aid or no Kool aid. High end oil doesn't insure long engine life any more than eating healthy insures a long human life.
#40
Shredding Rubber :
I think I have convinced myself to use redline shockproof heavy in the tranny.
Belwo is an email from Jim Morrisey with Royal Purple, I was going to follow his recomendation for Primary fluid. I understand clutches need friction..so I may back off this to just regular HD primary fluid and put the UV dye in there.
I am going to use a better oil in the engine but I cant afford $15 a quart.
I see the oil topic is like discussing caliber on a gun forum.
Thanks for everyones help... this is a great resource...
I think I have convinced myself to use redline shockproof heavy in the tranny.
Belwo is an email from Jim Morrisey with Royal Purple, I was going to follow his recomendation for Primary fluid. I understand clutches need friction..so I may back off this to just regular HD primary fluid and put the UV dye in there.
I am going to use a better oil in the engine but I cant afford $15 a quart.
I see the oil topic is like discussing caliber on a gun forum.
Thanks for everyones help... this is a great resource...
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