I traded my 07 deluxe for a 04 heritage in the fall of 2010. Is there a way I can ck to see if the previous owner did the tensioner upgrade? what should I look for?The bike has 45K on it and runs great. I did buy the extended warranty when i made the trade just in case .

 

Just checked mine and found this:



Nearly brand new, and they have 45k on them. It's a crap shoot with the old tensioners and I got lucky. I've heard it has to do with the chain production techniques, and stamping dies dulling during the punching process.

Only way to check them is to remove the cam chest cover. Pretty simple, just take out the bolts. It might be stuck to the gasket, so leave a couple bolts in but loose, place a rag on the cover, and give a couple good whacks with a dead blow hammer. You'll know if its been changed a couple ways. The new Hydro plates are an annodized aluminum, so it won't be silver like the one in my pic. Also, the tensioners themselves will not be spring loaded.

 

yea I saw your thread,thats what made me think of it. do the hydraulic tensioners physically look differant than the spring ones? if mine look like yours i wont care either way.

 

sorry just read your entire post and you have already answerd my question. Thanks!!

 

The colored plastic part looks pretty much the same, it's the holder part that'll look different. It wont be on an arm, and wont have the spring windings. Here's what the kit looks like

 

You have to check the Rear one as well. Just because the front one looks good doesn't mean the rear one is the same as well.

Mike
NY

 

You are right on the money here. I also just checked mine at 21k and they are nearly new...primary and secondary. A big relief after all the crap I have read. I'll run another 20k and recheck. Luck of the draw I suppose. Fyi...I run mobile 1.

Woody

 

I checked at 30k. I checked at 60k. The tensioners were still ok... just starting to pit. I think the variability of the quality of the plastic is one primary culprit, regular changes with synthetic oil or not is another, and heat is the third. Mine had cam and lifter problems from heat and I'm glad I checked at 60k. I could have gone 75k before things got really bad I think.

The cheapest solution is to replace the tensioners with the same as the original. You won't be able to see the difference without opening the tensioner where pitting is concerned. You will be able to see if both the inner and outer are coming to pieces. To check an inner that looks good you will have to pull the cam support along with the cams, which requires pulling the push rods and securing the lifters. Once you go to that effort, it's time to replace the inner bearings with Torrington bearings IF the cam still looks great. They will make the cam last longer. You should also replace the tensioners once you have pulled the cams. Beyond that is up to your wallet.

C#