Have you checked for any debris in the needle valve seat (or in the path) that might be restricting the fuel flow into the float bowl. My money would be on fuel starvation being the problem.

 

well it was clean before but i will check it all again, is there anything on the rubber needle valve i should look out for.

IF the bike is stopping and all electrics are still on does that mean the coil and ignition switch is ok.

 

I run the Dyna S on my '87 Sloptail. It uses the old style mechanical advance unit that was once used on the points ignitions. The advance mechanism is located behind the plate that the electronic unit mounts to. There are two flyweights and springs. There are several things that can cause problems - the mechanism gets gummed up and the flyweights fail to fully extend; the pins on which the flyweights pivot wear, or the holes in the flyweights wear, both which cause the weights to hit the back of the plate preventing them from going to full advance.

It could even be as simple as the timer plate being improperly adjusted. The plate is held by 2 screws in slotted holes. The timing is set by loosening the screws and moving the plate. Generally, a bike will run OK simply by positioning the plate so the screws are centered in the slots of the plate.

You can do a quick and dirty test of the advance mechanism by turning the rotor to full advance and releasing. It should "snap back crisply." However, it's easy to remove the 2 screws, pull the plate, and inspect the advance.

Word of caution with the Dyna S - never swap the wires on the coils as it can destroy the module as soon as it's powered. Basically, you'd be putting the module's + output directly to ground (a dead short) and the over-current would fry the unit.

 

If you haven't already done it, I would remove the needle valve seat from the carb body and check for any debris in the passage way.

 

ok well round 201 :-)

went back to basic to cover everything again into the fuel system

fuel flow all good
cleaned the carbi again also in the the passage way carbi is clean as.
clean sparks ignition coil.
did the ign system and advance snap back crisply.

took it for a run this time it worked i could ride up to 80 km really fast but it stop once again, so something i seen this time that could be the problem maybe.

Is the ignition switch when i turn to the lights on If the switch moves a further 1mm the motor and bike cuts out. so this could maybe the problem i tested it and it was fine working but if it moves the extra 1mm it cuts out. so i will replace the switch and see how it goes from there.

 

Are you getting any backfiring? Generally, if you intermittently lose spark wile riding down the road, it will backfire when the spark returns.

What is your process of cleaning the carburetor? The only way to do it right is to completely disassemble the carb, removing everything that can be removed from the carb body, and then soak it in solvent for several hours. Then compressed air through all of the passages.

 

str8jacket,
when my ignition switch dumped I'd hardly ever get a backfire. But when it did, dogs would howl, cats would pee, and the donut shop would empty of blue...

Ghosts,
Get a late model switch, usually go by something like "Heavy Duty Electronic Ignition Switch". They seem to work better than the repop old mechanical switches.

 

Hi guys thanks still for trying to help me with this alot.

There is no back fire she just stops and then starts back up again.
the way i cleaned the carbi was take the carbi off
pull all the jets out and choke out, flush everyhole out every cleaner made sure not one hole is bloged and looked for clean holes in the jets and pulled the needle up to the top and cleaned the pass way out. did it all in an 2 hours then set the tuning to what the book says.Does that sound right i did also adjust the float heights as it was 2mm out.

So i cant understand why it worked more this time but the only thing i can think off is the switch now im thinking the vibration is moving it that 1mm and shuts everything down.

what switch do you think, i need chrome one they all look the same.

http://www.debrix.com/SearchResults....gnition+switch



.

 

Get the better one they are sealed

 

ok It was the switch it was melted inside and the points keep moving, so the bike runs like dream now but my last problem.

The rear brake heats up when im riding gets so hot and almost grips and cant go any further. Frees up when cool so i changed the new quad seals and bleeded the brake a again and test ride it and it heats up after 5 mins of riding but frees up when cool. Any info of this would be great. There is a Spring that goes in the 2 holes in the back of the caliper then it clips over the 2 pads does this sound right.