You'll want to check the ohms range of the coil. Resistance ranges should be checked on the primary and secondary circuits. Each circuit will have different ohms ranges. I don't have a manual to the know ranges, but I'm sure you can get that information. Find out what ignition system you have to get it right. If there is now difference in idle speed when you pull the choke, as it should bog down after you warm it up with the choke pulled since it would be flooding the carb, then I would suspect the choke is stuck. I'm not an expert. Just some things that might be causing the problem.

 

Must not be a stock petcock if it doesn't have a vacuum actuator. A sock petcock should have a vacuum line connected to it.

Either way, I would check the flow from the tank to the carburetor before anything else. The issue sounds like a fuel flow problem. It's a simple check, just shut the fuel off, disconnect the fuel line from the carb and run it to a container, then turn the fuel on and check the flow. You should have a solid stream running from the tank. If it's a small trickle, then there's your problem. If you're getting a goof flow, then you'll know your problem is somewhere else.

 

Not quite sure where you sprayed the cleaner from your description. If you sprayed it around the carb-to-manifold joint, or the manifold-to-head joint and the rpm changed, you have a leak. That needs to be fixed first.

On the choke - First, this Mikuni doesn't have a "choke", it has an enrichener. A choke operates by restricting air flow and thus decreasing the air/fuel ratio. An enrichener basically increases fuel flow with little-to-no change in air volume. (That's a simplified tale, so don't get off too deep into it.) If the bike was running and you could move the enrichener **** with no effect on the bike, something ain't right! Either the intake leak is pretty gross, or the enrichener circuit is goobered. Before getting into whether you have a carb problem, fix the intake leak.

Coil resistance varies depending upon the coil model. A '92 is old enough that you might not have the original coil & ignition system. That said, the general range of resistances for electronic ignition systems is around 3 ohms on the primary (small wire) side; secondary will be in the 10,000 ohm and up range, depending upon the coil output voltage rating. Points ignition coils are generally around 5 ohms on the primary. Putting an electronic coil on a points equipped bike will cause the points and/or condenser to fry as they're breaking too much current, unless a current limiting resistor is placed in series with the coil.

Summing up - Fix the intake leak and see what happens. Might not be any other problem, though with a bike that has sat for 10 years there are probably going to be other little things needing attention.

Oh yeah, get rid of the doofy Hypercharger. Or at least disconnect the stupid butterflies so they stay open. They're for looks only and I've seen some pretty strange looking dyno curves caused by the butterflies flapping at low rpm. Think of it this way - "Oh look, I've designed a pretty good flowing air cleaner so I'm going to put some obstructions in the air flow path. That way I can make it work worse!"

 

hey thanks all again for your info.

Heres what i done today

when i sprayed from the manifold to head joint rpm slowed down, taken them of and went to an auto shop the guy think there ok anyway he gave me new seal to try so installed them.

Got the carbi checked and put new fuel hose on all. I noticed a bit a varnish coming off on the inside of the tank but this is soft and there are 2 filters so that should not be the problem.Fuel running fast out not clogged up.

Ok the coil test i dont really understand how to do it. I have a Hi-Intensity Single Fire Coil

this is the switch i have can i test it or not test this.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Chrome-Ignit.../dp/B002QVC3ZG

and this is the coil i have, should i test this or the wires that connect to this next to the bolt, sorry i cant find much info on testing them.

http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=23387

 

Two fuel filters? Not good. That can often restrict flow enough to cause fuel starvation. From your original description this sounds like the probable cause - does OK at slower speeds, but dies when you get up to a higher speed. It's running out of fuel in the float bowl, then will start back up when the bowl refills. Good place to start, anyway.

Coil test: Maybe somebody will speak up who has worked on one of these coils. It appears to have 3 primary leads. I would think the center is the common to the 2 coils, but that is just a guess. Try reading (ohms position on you multimeter) from the center to one of the other connections. Then read the center to the other connection. If the center is common your readings should be about 3 ohms in either direction. In any case you can find the common coil connection by reading from connector to connector. As long as you find 2 readings that are 3 ohms the coil is probably OK.

Switch test: Find the hot (+12V) connection by having the switch "off" and reading the connection points to a good ground. Once you find the +12 connection and it reads battery voltage, you can operate the switch and see what voltage level is present at the other points. However, this is one of the older switch types and they can corrode & arc over time. Flip the switch upside down and check the contacts for corrosion, evidence of arcing, etc.

 

He said he tested the flow and fuel is "running fast out". Any kind of decent flow is adequate to keep the float bowl full.

When he said two filters, I assumed he was referring to the screen over the pickup inside the tank as one of the filters.

When you say you got the carb checked, who checked it and how did they check it?

 

ok todays work

the carbi was taken to the auto store and the guy said hes a carbi expert so he blew in the holes and checked the float height by doing some bloeing thing where the fuel goes in and said it was all good loll i hope.

Yes i ment the filter in the tank on the petcock and one between the betcock and carbi.

OK contact crans for the ignition coil no one could help me or new what the readings should be but this is what i came up with

does this sound right and did i have the setting 200 and 20k ok for the test.

I set the multi to 200 ohm,put 1 wire on the middle bolt on the back and other wire on the out side bolts and got 2 readings off 3.7 and 3.7

test 2 set multi to 20k, took the spark cables out and one wire on the back middle bolt and the other wire to one inside hose hole on the top and got 9.24 and the bottom hole tested at 8.95

i started the bike up and runn it for 2 mins then stop and tested it everything went up around .30 more.

What do you think please.

 

well well well still same problem ****. Just taken it for a ride then trying to look out for anything. heres what i noticed

riding 40km sweet no problem, open it up runs rough then dies ALL elec are still on working when engine stops. no circuit break or so would that mean the coil is ok or can it still break.

Which makes me think still fuel? starts up again then same ****ing thing.

 

What do you have for an ignition system? Some electronic systems use a mechanical advance and if it is worn it can hang and not go to full advance. hat can cause the crappy running once you get up to speed, but seldom shuts the bike off unless it's coupled with another problem.

 

hi pococj its a ( dyna s ignition ) can i test it some how