There is a spacer pack that is available for cam changes. The spacers are for the alignment of the rear cam sprocket with the pinion sprocket. There are five spacers, maybe six, can't recall, that are in .010" increments. Usually the .110" or .120" will bring the two sprockets into alignment but I have seen the .130" and .140" required. If the sprockets are not out of alignment more than .010" (again I am recalling from memory so I could be wrong) they are close enough. If they are out of alignment more than .010", you could throw the chain at high rpms.

Don't know what prods you have but all you have to do is adjust them short enough to clear the lifter block. Get the cylinder you want to adjust at TDC on the compression stroke and adjust. If you leave the cam chest cover off, you can see behind the cam plate to make sure the lifter is on the heel of the cam. Should be there anyway if the piston is at or near TDC on the compression stroke but if you are doing it for the first time, you won't be second guessing yourself later if you saw the lifter on the heel of the cam. The piston does not have to be precisely at TDC, could be a little before or a little after.

 

I picked up a bigger spacer, it was .123,or somehting like that. I had a gap of .0145 according to my spacing tool so I went from the .110 that was installed to this .123 new one. Thanks for the advice djl. I'm going to attemp the pushrods tomorrow.

 

In that video doesn't it show the front cylinder on overlap & then you can install & adjust the rear pushrods? Then, after they bleed down you can adjust the rear cylinder to overlap & then install & adjust the front cylinders pushrods. I think that's what I remember....I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. I guess I'll watch that video again. I plan on doing my cam install this weekend if my pipes arrive on time.....

 

I just rewatched the video again. Go to the 43:01 spot on the video & it describes what I posted. It only shows him putting the front cylinder on overlap to adjust the rear so presumably after the rear lifters bleed down you would turn the tire until the rear cylinder hits overlap & then install & adjust the front cylinder. Please, someone chime in & confirm I'm correct...

 

I would be concerned if the spacer kit doesn't include a spacer that will bring your sproket alignment into tolerance and would go back and check the work to see if there is a reason they are that far out...

In my case when I installed the SE Hydraulic kit, the instructions said start with a spacer of .020 over what was in it... this worked perrectly. The SE instructions have an exploded view that shows the Cam Gear in backwards and there is a variation in the offest of the gear alignment. When I put everything in the way that the pictures showed (and as was the original placement) everything worked fine. You have to make sure that you have eliminated the end play in both the cam and the crank, too, before measuring. If you aren't installing the SE hydraulic conversion kit, then I would be concerned that you don't have the inner cam bearings properly seated.

C#

 

kKlaybus, in the instructions that come with the FM adj. Pushrods it says exactly that.

Says...make sure the lifter is riding on the base circle of the cam or lowest point of the lobe before beginning installation of the pushrod. One way to make sure is to watch and when the exhaust lifter is just beginning to come up the intake should be at the bottom and when the intake lifter comes up and is going back down, the exhaust should be at bottom.

And to do one rod at a time and wait 15 min or so for it to bleed down

I will be following these instructions. What kind of pushrods did you get for your install?