Help with removing pushrods
#21
I was too, I sent Fuelmoto a email asking if the gap was normal or if I needed to fill it with a bigger spacer. Will hold off on the pushrod installation until I get more info. I need to do a little more research and watch the video again to try understand the p rod installation anyway
Don't know what prods you have but all you have to do is adjust them short enough to clear the lifter block. Get the cylinder you want to adjust at TDC on the compression stroke and adjust. If you leave the cam chest cover off, you can see behind the cam plate to make sure the lifter is on the heel of the cam. Should be there anyway if the piston is at or near TDC on the compression stroke but if you are doing it for the first time, you won't be second guessing yourself later if you saw the lifter on the heel of the cam. The piston does not have to be precisely at TDC, could be a little before or a little after.
#22
#23
In that video doesn't it show the front cylinder on overlap & then you can install & adjust the rear pushrods? Then, after they bleed down you can adjust the rear cylinder to overlap & then install & adjust the front cylinders pushrods. I think that's what I remember....I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. I guess I'll watch that video again. I plan on doing my cam install this weekend if my pipes arrive on time.....
#24
I just rewatched the video again. Go to the 43:01 spot on the video & it describes what I posted. It only shows him putting the front cylinder on overlap to adjust the rear so presumably after the rear lifters bleed down you would turn the tire until the rear cylinder hits overlap & then install & adjust the front cylinder. Please, someone chime in & confirm I'm correct...
#25
In my case when I installed the SE Hydraulic kit, the instructions said start with a spacer of .020 over what was in it... this worked perrectly. The SE instructions have an exploded view that shows the Cam Gear in backwards and there is a variation in the offest of the gear alignment. When I put everything in the way that the pictures showed (and as was the original placement) everything worked fine. You have to make sure that you have eliminated the end play in both the cam and the crank, too, before measuring. If you aren't installing the SE hydraulic conversion kit, then I would be concerned that you don't have the inner cam bearings properly seated.
C#
Last edited by cwsharp; 01-07-2012 at 08:16 PM.
#26
kKlaybus, in the instructions that come with the FM adj. Pushrods it says exactly that.
Says...make sure the lifter is riding on the base circle of the cam or lowest point of the lobe before beginning installation of the pushrod. One way to make sure is to watch and when the exhaust lifter is just beginning to come up the intake should be at the bottom and when the intake lifter comes up and is going back down, the exhaust should be at bottom.
And to do one rod at a time and wait 15 min or so for it to bleed down
I will be following these instructions. What kind of pushrods did you get for your install?
Says...make sure the lifter is riding on the base circle of the cam or lowest point of the lobe before beginning installation of the pushrod. One way to make sure is to watch and when the exhaust lifter is just beginning to come up the intake should be at the bottom and when the intake lifter comes up and is going back down, the exhaust should be at bottom.
And to do one rod at a time and wait 15 min or so for it to bleed down
I will be following these instructions. What kind of pushrods did you get for your install?
I just rewatched the video again. Go to the 43:01 spot on the video & it describes what I posted. It only shows him putting the front cylinder on overlap to adjust the rear so presumably after the rear lifters bleed down you would turn the tire until the rear cylinder hits overlap & then install & adjust the front cylinder. Please, someone chime in & confirm I'm correct...
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