having trouble getting rear disc off
#1
having trouble getting rear disc off
i have a 2005 heritage and i have to replace the rear disc, i've got the rear wheel off and i've got the new disc and new torx screws/bolts, but i can't remove the old torx bolts i have soaked them in penitrating oil but have still managed to shear off 4 torx sockets, the bolts just ain't budging anyone got any ideas.
#3
#4
1) Impact wrench with a higher quality torx bit (and a spare or two)
2) Torch to heat the bolt and release the thread locker
I've never had to resort to the torch method but I've been close.
And when you reinstall, clean that factory threadlocker off the bolts (if any) and use blue (242) loctite, not red, or you'll be going through this all over again the next time.
Some guys may argue with my loctite recommendation and I'm not going to play along if that occurs. I'm just telling you what I would do, what I have done, and my rotors have never fallen off. I've also never seen the need for new bolts unless you damage one. They are not torque-to-yield bolts.
2) Torch to heat the bolt and release the thread locker
I've never had to resort to the torch method but I've been close.
And when you reinstall, clean that factory threadlocker off the bolts (if any) and use blue (242) loctite, not red, or you'll be going through this all over again the next time.
Some guys may argue with my loctite recommendation and I'm not going to play along if that occurs. I'm just telling you what I would do, what I have done, and my rotors have never fallen off. I've also never seen the need for new bolts unless you damage one. They are not torque-to-yield bolts.
#5
1) Impact wrench with a higher quality torx bit (and a spare or two)
2) Torch to heat the bolt and release the thread locker
I've never had to resort to the torch method but I've been close.
And when you reinstall, clean that factory threadlocker off the bolts (if any) and use blue (242) loctite, not red, or you'll be going through this all over again the next time.
Some guys may argue with my loctite recommendation and I'm not going to play along if that occurs. I'm just telling you what I would do, what I have done, and my rotors have never fallen off. I've also never seen the need for new bolts unless you damage one. They are not torque-to-yield bolts.
2) Torch to heat the bolt and release the thread locker
I've never had to resort to the torch method but I've been close.
And when you reinstall, clean that factory threadlocker off the bolts (if any) and use blue (242) loctite, not red, or you'll be going through this all over again the next time.
Some guys may argue with my loctite recommendation and I'm not going to play along if that occurs. I'm just telling you what I would do, what I have done, and my rotors have never fallen off. I've also never seen the need for new bolts unless you damage one. They are not torque-to-yield bolts.
Last edited by back again; 12-22-2011 at 06:28 PM.
#7
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#8
#9
Torch in the wrong hands will flake chrome or make powder coats peel quickly.A "good" heat gun makes childs play out of even the HD factory thread locker which I've always found tougher to break and melt than Red locktite.Which ever method you use the biggest factor is the quality of the torx bit you use.It pays to buy a good set of torx and 12points fromSnap On,Matco,etc tool company. Good luck with your job kalamitty
#10
Those Torx bolts are a major PITA. Last winter I changed my rotors and pulley. In doing so I busted, bent and twisted 7 or 8 various brands & qualities of Torx bits using anything from a leverage socket drive to pneumatic impact wrench. Use heat gun and penetration fluids as well.
I can't help thinking that there has to be a better way ...
I can't help thinking that there has to be a better way ...