1000 amps? Are you sure it wasn't 100? 1000 watts maybe? 1000 amps is not possible, the battery only puts out about 270 amps. 1000 amps X 12 volts is 12,000 watts. That's getting close to lightning strike wattage.

Actually those contacts look to be burnt pretty bad. New contacts are flat, those are cut in pretty deep. The solenoid only has a certain amount of travel. Once it is fully engaged, it can't move any farther. Once the contacts get cut in like that, the contact surfaces are at the outer limit of travel, so the ring can't make good solid contact anymore.

Here's an example of what new contacts look like:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-David...462d7d&vxp=mtr

Notice how deeply yours are cut in compared to the new ones.

Are you still using that same solenoid with the new starter motor?

 

the ground only gets hot when i try to start it. i will have to check some stuff with the ohmeter. thanks


str8jacket- not sure bout the 1000 amp thing, my buddy had one of those testers u hold over the wire and it maxed it out which he told me meant my starter was bad.

and i am using a new starter all together. new solenoid and all.

 

one guy mentioned that it could be the solenoid, could that be true? it turns sometimes but slowly, and other times now it just clicks fast and doesnt turn

 

The only way you can blame the starter for sure is to bench test it.

Pull it out, hook it in a vice, and touch the hot jumper to the hot input with the ground hooked up. If it spins freely, you have other problems. You can do this on the bike by isolating the starter (disconnect the wiring, get the big gear off so that the jack shaft turns freely, then do the same thing as a bench test. That will save you some time. If it spins freely, start checking out your wiring and switches.

I wouldn't say that a new starter, unless it's hooked up wrong, would be so shorted that it would send an induction ammeter off the chart, because they would usually test them before they leave the factory.

C#

 

the starter is brand new, so im assuming it works. is there any other issue that could cause this problem? solenoid??

i havent tested the new starter with an ammeter. it was the old one that drew if off the charts

 

The new one can be bad. You have got to stop just sticking stuff in until you definitively locate the problem unless you like spending time and money on something other than riding.

Your solution of a new starter didn't fix it. Use an induction ammeter and see if it's still off the chart (or over 350 amps, anyway). If it is, then it >still< could be the starter OR the wiring OR one of the switches.

A dead short means that you are connecting the hot side of a battery to ground instead of completing the circuit. So if a wire that is supposed to be hot connects to ground it's the same as taking a wrench and holding it on the hot post of the battery and giving yourself cheap thrills every time you hit the frame with the wrench. A short in the starter OR an incomplete circuit (i.e. a bad contact) can cause a high draw on the ammeter. A bad contact does not mean a short to ground. If nothing shorts to ground then you need to test continuity across the switches, which, when they are turned off, should be zero and when on should be 100%. Do not do continuity tests on hot circuits (hooked up to the battery). Don't ask how I know this but let's just say it's a bad approach to figuring out you should have been using a circuit tester instead.

Disconnect the battery. Pull the hot wire off of the starter. Test it for conductivity to ground. If it has high conductivity you know there's a short. Test the run/stop, the ignition, and the start switch in the same way. Without looking at a wiring diagram I can't tell you how the circuits are completed on the switches but that's what you have to do. Find out if the circuit is completed when it isn't supposed to be. After this then check the continuity across the switches. If all of those pass, then you have some other major fault in the wiring harness would be my guess.

I had a problem once that turned out to be where mice had eaten through the insulation on a wire.

 

hey guys, so after getting the new starter in, i think my battery was just dead. i charged it up and it fired very well. im going to take it out today and see how it goes

but first, i just wanted to make sure of one thing.... im wondering if the 2 hoses shown in the below pics have to go in a specific order. does one have a raised entrance in this aftermarket oil tank? i tried to look in to see but couldnt. to be honest, i dont think there is, but i want to be sure before riding.

 

one is an inlet to the motor, and one is a return from the oil filter

 

I read the whole thread. What a journey. Hope all is good now, and hope you have a trouble free riding season.

 

hey all,

i just went for a ride and made it home successfully! i made an educated guess on those 2 oil hoses, started it up, and saw circulation in the tank.

thanks to everyone for their help