Removing lowere fork legs
#1
11-17-2011, 10:19 AM
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#2
11-17-2011, 10:37 AM
Tourer
I just did this for the first time about a month ago on my Deluxe, to epoxy the lower fork legs. The hardest part for me was removing and reinstalling the aux light bar and backplate behind the headlight. I ended up taking the headlight off to secure this stuff, and to securely bolt back on my beer cans. Then readjusting the headlight back to stock.
The process itself was pretty easy, even for a new guy like me. Straightforward - I wouldn't sweat it.
I also learned that it takes two cans of diluted goof off to remove epoxy overspray on gloss black parts and helmets in my garage, because I didn't cover everything within a six mile radius of my epoxy spray. Duh.
The process itself was pretty easy, even for a new guy like me. Straightforward - I wouldn't sweat it.
I also learned that it takes two cans of diluted goof off to remove epoxy overspray on gloss black parts and helmets in my garage, because I didn't cover everything within a six mile radius of my epoxy spray. Duh.
#3
11-17-2011, 10:54 AM
Advanced
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's a pretty easy undertaking.
Watch the top caps, they will fly off because of the spring pressure underneath. I wrap them with green painters tape not to hack them up.
To loosen the bottom allen-head bolt holding the damper rod seat (the little aluminum thingy that sits at the bottom of the piston, you need to put pressure on the piston with the fork spring, otherwise it will just spin on you. What I do, is after I drain the oil, I hold the fork by the caliper mount tab in a vice (or wrap the crap out of them with a cloth and put them in a vice), push with my left hand onto the spring and loosen the fork stop screw with my right. You might need a T-handle allan key to get into the one fork.
The "slide hammer" method for removing the fork seals works like a charm.
The most challenging part of all this is eventually getting the fork caps back on. Get your foul mouth vocab ready for that part.
There are good YouTube vids on how to do this too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JupV...eature=related
PDF of Fork components
Hope it helps.
Watch the top caps, they will fly off because of the spring pressure underneath. I wrap them with green painters tape not to hack them up.
To loosen the bottom allen-head bolt holding the damper rod seat (the little aluminum thingy that sits at the bottom of the piston, you need to put pressure on the piston with the fork spring, otherwise it will just spin on you. What I do, is after I drain the oil, I hold the fork by the caliper mount tab in a vice (or wrap the crap out of them with a cloth and put them in a vice), push with my left hand onto the spring and loosen the fork stop screw with my right. You might need a T-handle allan key to get into the one fork.
The "slide hammer" method for removing the fork seals works like a charm.
The most challenging part of all this is eventually getting the fork caps back on. Get your foul mouth vocab ready for that part.
There are good YouTube vids on how to do this too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JupV...eature=related
PDF of Fork components
Hope it helps.
#4
11-17-2011, 06:39 PM
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#5
11-17-2011, 06:56 PM
Former Sponsor
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
