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  #11  
Old 08-28-2011, 09:03 AM
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Sorry I just don't think it's worth it. I change my oil & filter every 2000 miles anyway. This is a dryslump system and have had them in my racecars and all I have ever done to change the oil is to drain the tank, the risk of starvation is greater then the old oil. JMO so to each their own. There are many diesel trucks that retain approx a qt of old oil at every oilchange
 
  #12  
Old 08-28-2011, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by roadkingharry
What Tracker56 said .I have this system and it works great. It was very useful when I did my engine build since I had to change the oil at 70, 250, 500 and 1000 miles. Go to that link that Tracker listed to see how it works, very simple but effective.

+2 it works great, but I do not have an oil cooler.
 
  #13  
Old 08-28-2011, 10:45 AM
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Cool Scavenger oil change

Thought I were doin' good with ROGUE system until the retaining clip that fits on the return line inside the oil tank failed and dealer put a new one in and I'm scairt to use it again. Maybe I'll try it sometime in the future. I like the idea but the return line connection on my '09, 96" got me once. Went from Amsoil to Mobil 1 and change @ 3,ooo should be ok? Got any method to open the return line without damaging the clip inside the tank? Tell me simple method to convert KPH to MPH.
 
  #14  
Old 09-14-2011, 10:38 PM
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I used the scavenger on my 2007 FLSTF and really liked the whole process, and my indy remarked that the oil was really clean when I brought it to him to do my 103 build, and it had 1500 miles on that oil.

I recently used this scavenger again on my 2011 RKC, went from Dino to Mobil 1 20-50 synthetic oil, and I did not want any dirty dino left in the engine.

Piece of mind, and why run dirty oil into the clean oil you just changed?

I feel this method will help to keep the engine running cleaner internally- it's a good system IMO.
 
  #15  
Old 09-14-2011, 11:04 PM
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I'm not going to say anybody is or isn't doing anything wrong. I have a friend with 122k on his 02 Heritage (stock other than intake and TW6-6 woods cams). The motor is now starting to get a little tired, but how much more would a guy expect to get from an air cooled motor. The guy has never done more than the standard dump and refill and change the filter.
 
  #16  
Old 09-14-2011, 11:15 PM
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i have only done this once and it was when i switched from dino to synthetic. i just dump and fill now at 3000. with the milage they say you can go on synthetic the oil's life is only half gone if that, then the bit that is left in the motor diluted with the fresh stuff i cant see it ever harming anything. but definately a great idea when switching to differant fluids like i did
 
  #17  
Old 09-14-2011, 11:28 PM
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Let's see, my FB takes 2.5 quarts when I change my oil. You say you know for a fact that yours takes 3? Then why was it at an Indy? It took you longer to get it there than to change it. Are you scavenging your system at home?
 
  #18  
Old 09-15-2011, 12:26 AM
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I'd think they only changed the motor oil, Mine takes almost three with new filter and pri and tranny one each..
 
  #19  
Old 09-15-2011, 01:19 AM
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Sorry I misread this. Changing all the holes, they should have used almost 4 quarts. I understand now why you won't go back.
 
  #20  
Old 09-15-2011, 08:05 AM
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there was a listing on the forum a short while ago where a guy had a way to drain the sump without removing the return line his was done with a device that went into the filter spot and had a house coming off of it did the same thing but you never removed the return line seemed like a better way then the scavenger and it was cheaper i cant find the thread maybe someone else can
 


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