Possible oil leak
#1
Possible oil leak
Hi all: Washed the bike this AM and rode it into the garage to dry it. Came back a few hours later only to find oil on top of the engine behind the rear jug. Looks like it came out of the rectangular opening in the casting where the two casing halves come together. Looks like it leaked about 10 drops of engine oil.
I started the engine again and let it warm up all the time watching for more oil, but I did not see any new oil in the area.
Do you know what is going on here? Seen it before? Thanks, Chris.
I started the engine again and let it warm up all the time watching for more oil, but I did not see any new oil in the area.
Do you know what is going on here? Seen it before? Thanks, Chris.
#2
Update
I have done a bit more research and here is what I have found. First, while not being common, this is a known issue and is the result of inadequately applied case sealant during assembly.
The fix which seems to be the most popular is to clean the pry hole with brake cleaner and blow it dry. Once prep'ed, flood the hole with wicking Loc-Tite (294) and let it sit over night. Remove any remaining liquid Loc-Tite from the hole.
I will be doing this tomorrow.
The fix which seems to be the most popular is to clean the pry hole with brake cleaner and blow it dry. Once prep'ed, flood the hole with wicking Loc-Tite (294) and let it sit over night. Remove any remaining liquid Loc-Tite from the hole.
I will be doing this tomorrow.
#4
Strange indeed. I suspect this is more a seepage than a leak. When I washed the bike the oil in the hole floated out. I have some paper towel strips in the hole now but no more oil. Will continue to monitor until I can apply the fix.
#5
#6
I have the exact same problem...2010fatboy please let me know how your fix went. Is the loctite holding with the engine heat or is there something better out there to use??
I'm under warranty still but dont plan on letting dealer pull motor and split cases until it's a last resort
I'm under warranty still but dont plan on letting dealer pull motor and split cases until it's a last resort
I did go one step future. Once I was done with the Loctite, I cleaned the hole again and then taped it off. I then filled it with the high temp black permatext gasket sealer. I made darn sure it was really packed in and that no bubbles were present. Let that set up overnight too.
Have not seen any oil since. Be careful cleaning. I ended up having to touch up the wrinkle black engine paint due to the brake cleaner.
I agree with you in not wanting to have the case split apart. Way too many things to go wrong with that. I would live with the oil seepage before doing that.
#7
Thanks a ton for the quick reponse.
The brake cleaner actually removed some of the black wrinkle paint? wow- thanks for the heads up on that too. I'm now wondering if a more mild cleaner would suffice? If I do use the brake cleaner, I will just apply some to a Q tip instead of spraying it to avoid damaging the paint from the overspray.
I bought the green penetrating loctite today as well as high temp permatex RTV (ironic that I had the same RTV idea as you before even reading your reply!)
Thanks again CM!!
PM me for more details if you like and we can take this off the boards
The brake cleaner actually removed some of the black wrinkle paint? wow- thanks for the heads up on that too. I'm now wondering if a more mild cleaner would suffice? If I do use the brake cleaner, I will just apply some to a Q tip instead of spraying it to avoid damaging the paint from the overspray.
I bought the green penetrating loctite today as well as high temp permatex RTV (ironic that I had the same RTV idea as you before even reading your reply!)
Thanks again CM!!
PM me for more details if you like and we can take this off the boards
Last edited by billybobber; 10-18-2011 at 08:40 PM.
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#8
#9
Starting fluid cleans just as well but doesnt eat the paint but I have a silver engine. I had the same leak but the 249 didnt fix it for me. Had to use 2 part epoxy putty.
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