Stressed about ape install
#31
Definetely no need to remove the tank...
The clutch cable was the part I was most worried about but it ended up being the easiest in my opinion... just analyze everything before taking it off and remember where everything goes, and you shouldnt have a problem. FIrst time I did the install, and doing that took me 5 minutes...
The clutch cable was the part I was most worried about but it ended up being the easiest in my opinion... just analyze everything before taking it off and remember where everything goes, and you shouldnt have a problem. FIrst time I did the install, and doing that took me 5 minutes...
#33
would someone PLEASE explain that part to me.... where exactly does the cardboard go?? is the point to keep the lever out? (away from the grip-normal position) i'm not understanding the purpose here.. I know it's to keep some plunger (light switch I guess) from breaking, but I don't understand why, how, etc...
#35
would someone PLEASE explain that part to me.... where exactly does the cardboard go?? is the point to keep the lever out? (away from the grip-normal position) i'm not understanding the purpose here.. I know it's to keep some plunger (light switch I guess) from breaking, but I don't understand why, how, etc...
Basically the tab on the lever that hits the switch to activate the brake will be in contact with it and can break it. You want to basically pull the lever in so the tab is at the end of the switch instead of in front of it if that makes sense.
I didn't use a cardboard piece, I just grab the lever and squeeze it as I put it on and off or a washer will work.
The card board or washer goes between the lever and the master cylinder where it rotates just to make the lever go in a bit if that makes sense.
#36
When you see it, it will make more sense.
Basically the tab on the lever that hits the switch to activate the brake will be in contact with it and can break it. You want to basically pull the lever in so the tab is at the end of the switch instead of in front of it if that makes sense.
I didn't use a cardboard piece, I just grab the lever and squeeze it as I put it on and off or a washer will work.
The card board or washer goes between the lever and the master cylinder where it rotates just to make the lever go in a bit if that makes sense.
Basically the tab on the lever that hits the switch to activate the brake will be in contact with it and can break it. You want to basically pull the lever in so the tab is at the end of the switch instead of in front of it if that makes sense.
I didn't use a cardboard piece, I just grab the lever and squeeze it as I put it on and off or a washer will work.
The card board or washer goes between the lever and the master cylinder where it rotates just to make the lever go in a bit if that makes sense.
#37
Installing the bars seems more intimidating going into it than it will after you're done. I've found that is true with a lot of work I've done on my bike. But I figure that no matter how bad I could screw it up, there's always someone who can fix it, though I haven't had that happen yet, and I've learned a lot and saved money.
When you're done you'll see.
When you're done you'll see.
#38
it really is an easy job, sounds like you are over thinking it....
in sum:
- no need to remove the tank, just the bolts so it can be moved
- may need to remove exhaust (i had to) to get to tranny cover
- snap ring pliers makes things alot easier (although it CAN be done without one)
- make sure you have tranny fulid and DOT4 on hand, your gonna need them
- solder your connections, no butt connectors
- label wires with masking tape
- use fishing line and lead sinker to feed wires through new bars
- TAKE YOUR TIME! as in, if you need to quit for the night and go back at
it in the morning, so be it
- try to enjoy it!!!!! modding/wrenching is part of owning the machine!
good luck!!! feel free to PM me if you need to!
in sum:
- no need to remove the tank, just the bolts so it can be moved
- may need to remove exhaust (i had to) to get to tranny cover
- snap ring pliers makes things alot easier (although it CAN be done without one)
- make sure you have tranny fulid and DOT4 on hand, your gonna need them
- solder your connections, no butt connectors
- label wires with masking tape
- use fishing line and lead sinker to feed wires through new bars
- TAKE YOUR TIME! as in, if you need to quit for the night and go back at
it in the morning, so be it
- try to enjoy it!!!!! modding/wrenching is part of owning the machine!
good luck!!! feel free to PM me if you need to!
#39
thanks guys... makes me feel better. it just seems like every time I work on it I end up with some problem.. either not sure how to remove something or not having the right tool...
I ordered the NAMZ extensions also.. 15".. actually talked to someone there and they said to get the 15" extensions.. so at least those will save some time...
I ordered the NAMZ extensions also.. 15".. actually talked to someone there and they said to get the 15" extensions.. so at least those will save some time...
#40
thanks guys... makes me feel better. it just seems like every time I work on it I end up with some problem.. either not sure how to remove something or not having the right tool...
I ordered the NAMZ extensions also.. 15".. actually talked to someone there and they said to get the 15" extensions.. so at least those will save some time...
I ordered the NAMZ extensions also.. 15".. actually talked to someone there and they said to get the 15" extensions.. so at least those will save some time...