That's about 2" in the front in that pic, and about 1.5" to 2" in back with adjustable shocks (Ultima's).

Since then the front has settled a little bit more, and I'm running the Shotgun in back.

As far as the drop-in kit and the oil goes, from what I understand (and I'm no expert) the way the front is lowered is by adjusting the preload (the length of the spacers). When I first put the springs in the front seemed a bit spongy, so when I went to chrome lowers shortly after I did the SE heavy fork oil and the feel went back to how it was when it was stock, as far as firmness goes.

Is it better or worse than going with lower tubes? I don't know. I'm not sure how my bike being lower 2" with the springs is worse than with shorter tubes, or how I have lost 2" of travel, but a shorter tube wouldn't. I would think that any time you shorten your forks you lose that travel, since you can't gain something you take away. Am I crazy, or does that make sense?

Anyhow, I'm happy with the ride, and the front has never bottomed out, even on railroad tracks, potholes, etc.

 

Well, heyell....just when I thought I knew what I was gonna do.........you people and your 'options'



I am being sarcastic. A little.

 

Thanks for the info Pops, I've actually bought stff from BK Rider on ebay before... I have a FXST so it would be the 24.25" tube, would it be totally too low if I went to the FLH or is it better to just go 2" to the 22.25" tube. Also how difficult is it to actually change these out. I'm very mechanically skilled, but when it comes to things on this bike that may mean my life if I do it wrong I'm a little cautious.

Do you know if there are any videos anywhere that show how to install these?

 

Just so I got this striaght....with my Fatboy, if I install FLH tubes & nothing else, I retain the same ride, at 2" lower...it's really that simple??? My bike rides just fine to me, so I do this...with no change in ride. I'll do this as a winter project then! Sweet. Thanks gentlemen!

 

It is just that easy. I got mine from BK also, comes with everything you need too. having the drop and retaining a softer suspension is awesome, I thought about dropping in my progressives, but they make the ride so harsh that I think I'll pass and leave it as is.

 

ElSupremo and phknsic, sorry I didn't get back to you I've been out of town.
First of all the reason you're losing travel with the spring kit is that the springs and
spacers with kit will be shorter in length than your stock springs. They allow your
your fork tubes to slide down into the lower legs thus shortening the overall length
of your fork assembly and lowering your bike.The thing I noticed with the kits was
that the springs were always so stiff they ruined the ride.
I guess I shouldn't say you are losing travel but using up approximately 2" by
the tubes being in a lower position in the slider(fork leg).
I hope I didn't just confuse you with my pitiful explanation. All I know I have
lowered 7 of my Hogs in the last 13 years and I did not get the ride I wanted
until I used shorter tubes.
Phknsic, you have probably already made a decision about what way to go.
FXST's are much much easier to do than FLST's. You don't have all that tin
and crap to deal with. If you don't have a manual get one, you'll need it soon
anyway.
I have posted two pages from a Harley FXST manual for removing and
disassembling your forks. Remove Frt wheel,fender and caliper.
I remove the forks and drain them differently than Harley's procedure.
1) Remove top cap plugs (42 & 43).
2) Work one fork assembly at a time.
3) Back off screw (27) and pinch bolt (4).
4) Fork tube should be loose enough to pull it down below the top crown
about 4 inches.
5) At this point tighten pinch bolt (4)
6) By dropping the fork tube down you have exposed the fork tube plug (5).
7) Use a large Cresent wrench and break this plug (5) loose but do not
remove it.
8)At this point its time to loosen screw (13). This can be tricky if it has never
been removed before. HD uses thread locker on this screw so it will be
tight. I use a 6mm allen wrench instead of a 1/4" standard because it fits
tighter. What I did was cut the long side of the allen wrench to about 3"
long. I put that in 1/4" drive 1/4" deep socket then plugged that into a
1/4-3/8 drive adaptor then plugged that into a 3/8-1/2 adaptor then put
that on my 1/2" drive air impact wrench. I know this sounds ridiculous but
its worked for me for over ten years. I start at the lowest setting on the
impact and up up until it breaks the screw loose.
9) At this time I don't remove the screw but just break it loose.
10)Now you can loosen pinch bolt (4) and the complete fork assembly
will slide out of the lower tree.
11) Now its time to remove the fork tube plug (5). Its under considerable
pressure so be very careful. What I do is stand the assembly straight on the
floor and grab the fork tube with my left hand just under the plug and put
a large cresent wrench on the flats of the plug, apply pressure down and
start backing it out slowly until it pops loose.Continue holding the fork tube
set the plug on the floor and pull the spring out of the tube. This is a messy
job so I usually drop the spring in my trash can so the oil will soak into the
trash.
12) Next you'll need a pan to dump the oil in. I usually turn it upside down
in the pan and lean against the bench and let it drain for awhile. This is a
altogether messy *** job so I let the assembly drain for awhile.
13)Now you're ready to start disassembling the forks. Start at step 3 under
Disassembly, remove dust boot, skip step 4 (FXSTD only) and go to step 5
after removing screw (13) at the bottom of the fork slider. This was loosened
in my step 8. Once this screw (13) is out and you have removed the retaining
ring(11) Harley instructions step 5 push the fork tube down to the bottom of
the slider and pull back up sharply until it tops out and it will pull apart.
So once you have both sides disassembled clean the slider's and you're ready
to install the new kit. You asked if you could use the 20.25" kit. I bought a
new Softail Standard back in 2007 that I eventually converted to the Heritage
look with aftermarket swooping fenders from Arlen Ness. I used Heritage
trees and sliders and the 20.25" tubes but didn't know about the BKRider
kit so it took me awhile to sort out the ride but eventually got it right. The
only problem I had was the Ness front fender set back further causing it
to clip the voltage regulator when the forks were completely compressed.
You should not have that problem if you use your stock FSXT frt fender.
I've seen pics of FXST's on here that were lowered much more than you
will be doing so you should be OK. If push comes to shove I'll swap you
my 22.25" legs with 5K on them.
Well I hope these two PDF files will load for you. If not PM me with your
email address and I'll send them to you. If you do decide to do this project
and run into problems PM me. Once you complete the work you'll see its
not that difficult and well worth the effort.

 

Phknsic, the PDF's didn't load so I'll try again.

 

Phknsic, I'm doing something wrong or you can't load PDF's. PM me if
you decide to do the work. Mike.

 

I HAVE A 2008 roadking flhrc . what tubes would lower my front end 1" to 1.5" .. would streetglide tubs be shorter i know there shocks are about one inch shorter?

 

Baust55, sorry I can't help you with this one. I don't have any experience lowering
an FLH. I think you have the shortest fork tubes available (20.25"). I'm not for sure
on that though. You'll probably have to use the drop in kit.
Try posting this question on the FLH forum, I'm sure someone will have some good
suggestions to get that bad boy lowered.