Tuned and still runs hot
#1
Tuned and still runs hot
On my 2010 Fatboy after an hour freeway ride at 70mph, my oil temp gauge reads 250 with the outside air temp being around 90. I hate to think of what these 100 degree days will be like.
My oil gauge has been verified with my works calibration lab.
Mods: Vance and Hines big shots, stage 1 air, Thundermax with autotune, and running Amsoil
The worst part is my friend has an 07 (same 96 engine) Fatboy, all he has done was add slip-ons and rip the back of the OEM air cleaner off (no tuning) on a side by side run he is always 20 degrees cooler than me.
I would rather avoid an oil cooler and fix the problem rather than cover it up.
Already check the intake for leaks.
I am tempted to have it dyno’ed
Any ideas to cool things down?
My oil gauge has been verified with my works calibration lab.
Mods: Vance and Hines big shots, stage 1 air, Thundermax with autotune, and running Amsoil
The worst part is my friend has an 07 (same 96 engine) Fatboy, all he has done was add slip-ons and rip the back of the OEM air cleaner off (no tuning) on a side by side run he is always 20 degrees cooler than me.
I would rather avoid an oil cooler and fix the problem rather than cover it up.
Already check the intake for leaks.
I am tempted to have it dyno’ed
Any ideas to cool things down?
#2
One thing I never liked about the Twinkies; they just run too hot. 250 on a 90 degree day sounds hotter than it should, but that could be the nature of the beast if you're sure your air/fuel mixture is good. My girlfriends 2004 883 runs at 225 on an 85 degree day doing 80 mph for over a half hour. Even though its technically an Evo motor, it has similar oil squirters that spray oil on the piston skirts which really heats up the oil. The pistons run cooler but the oil runs a lot hotter.
Nothing wrong with putting an oil cooler on the bike. Original owner of my Evo put one on it and I have a hard time getting the oil over 150 degrees in the tank.
+1 on running Amsoil on a hot running V-Twin.
Nothing wrong with putting an oil cooler on the bike. Original owner of my Evo put one on it and I have a hard time getting the oil over 150 degrees in the tank.
+1 on running Amsoil on a hot running V-Twin.
#3
250 is within the operating range. I run a stock 96b with an oil cooler. My tempts in south florida average about 230 whether running amsoil or syn. That's the thermostat doing it's job.
I don't care what anyone else says. The oil cooler is the best option for summer riding. Works fine in the winter too. Temps run about the same.
I don't care what anyone else says. The oil cooler is the best option for summer riding. Works fine in the winter too. Temps run about the same.
#4
250 is within the operating range. I run a stock 96b with an oil cooler. My tempts in south florida average about 230 whether running amsoil or syn. That's the thermostat doing it's job.
I don't care what anyone else says. The oil cooler is the best option for summer riding. Works fine in the winter too. Temps run about the same.
I don't care what anyone else says. The oil cooler is the best option for summer riding. Works fine in the winter too. Temps run about the same.
I would not worry about getting a cooler, it won't hurt, but that is high. I run all year here in S Florida and with a dealer download and SE stage one I was running those temps but after upgrading to a FatCat and TMax I"m down to 210'ish. Me things he still have a problem.
Are you sure you have the right base map loaded? How long have you been running the autotune?
#5
i wonder if you arent running too lean- and same question as above...
ever have any slight hesitation on acceleration? popping/ backfiring at all?
pull a plug and check to see the color- if its white or near white thats the issue... if not, back to the drawing board!
copied from crazy biker:
<<<<<
Lean running symptoms
[ol][*]â–ş Bike hesitates when throttle is increased
[*]â–ş Bike runs jerky or surges at steady throttle openings
[*]â–ş Engine detonates, (knocks) when accelerating
[*]â–ş Engine spits back or coughs through intake system
[*]â–ş Exhaust pipe deposits are light gray in color
[*]► Bike runs poorly when cold – engine runs better as it warms up to operating temperature
[*]â–ş Spark plug color is white
[*]â–ş Fuel consumption is abnormally low
[/ol]
ever have any slight hesitation on acceleration? popping/ backfiring at all?
pull a plug and check to see the color- if its white or near white thats the issue... if not, back to the drawing board!
copied from crazy biker:
<<<<<
Lean running symptoms
[ol][*]â–ş Bike hesitates when throttle is increased
[*]â–ş Bike runs jerky or surges at steady throttle openings
[*]â–ş Engine detonates, (knocks) when accelerating
[*]â–ş Engine spits back or coughs through intake system
[*]â–ş Exhaust pipe deposits are light gray in color
[*]► Bike runs poorly when cold – engine runs better as it warms up to operating temperature
[*]â–ş Spark plug color is white
[*]â–ş Fuel consumption is abnormally low
[/ol]
Last edited by wanabe; 05-30-2011 at 07:11 PM.
#6
Run richer... lower your gas mileage, flip the bird at the EPA and you won't have those temps. But... you aren't out of range for acceptable temps on your year bike as far as I know. You can change the target AFR on your bike very simply with a laptop to cool it down. If it is already low, then eventually the Autotune will take care of that for you within a certain amount of variation. The EPA wants your bike that lean...
#7
Just put the autotune on over the winter and have 1000+ miles on it. Accepted the map changes twice, sent the logs to Zippers and they check for an intake leak (done). The plugs have a slightly white color to them and I have been getting more and more backfires on decal, also an occasional cough through the air filter when I shut the engine down.
I am running map 401 but now zippers said 703 is the newest map for me but the changes are only with timing.
Looks like it may be time for another call to zippers to see how to manually change the AFR, from what I hear it is a long manual process changing every point on every rmp.
I am running map 401 but now zippers said 703 is the newest map for me but the changes are only with timing.
Looks like it may be time for another call to zippers to see how to manually change the AFR, from what I hear it is a long manual process changing every point on every rmp.
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#8
#9
Normal >engine< operating temperature is 260-285. Oil temperature does not necessarily represent your engine operating temperature. Hook up your laptop to your TMax after a good ride and use the monitor feature to tell you what the engine temp is. If you are popping on decel you are lean. Tmax will help you make any adjustments to correct the situation. You will probably need to create a monitor log and send it to them.
Read through your TMax manual and watch the youTube videos online first, if you haven't already.
Read through your TMax manual and watch the youTube videos online first, if you haven't already.
#10
On my 2010 Fatboy after an hour freeway ride at 70mph, my oil temp gauge reads 250 with the outside air temp being around 90. I hate to think of what these 100 degree days will be like.
My oil gauge has been verified with my works calibration lab.
Mods: Vance and Hines big shots, stage 1 air, Thundermax with autotune, and running Amsoil
The worst part is my friend has an 07 (same 96 engine) Fatboy, all he has done was add slip-ons and rip the back of the OEM air cleaner off (no tuning) on a side by side run he is always 20 degrees cooler than me.
I would rather avoid an oil cooler and fix the problem rather than cover it up.
Already check the intake for leaks.
I am tempted to have it dyno’ed
Any ideas to cool things down?
My oil gauge has been verified with my works calibration lab.
Mods: Vance and Hines big shots, stage 1 air, Thundermax with autotune, and running Amsoil
The worst part is my friend has an 07 (same 96 engine) Fatboy, all he has done was add slip-ons and rip the back of the OEM air cleaner off (no tuning) on a side by side run he is always 20 degrees cooler than me.
I would rather avoid an oil cooler and fix the problem rather than cover it up.
Already check the intake for leaks.
I am tempted to have it dyno’ed
Any ideas to cool things down?
I added MOCO oil cooler and use 20w50 Redline Vtwin for duty running and installed fan I fabricated for idle parade duty. Do you have any bags or other things obstructing running duty air flow? What does autotune run say about AFR. You may bit a bit too lean.