rear brakes binding
#1
rear brakes binding
I looked though the search and couldn't find any info, so I'll ask.
Took the bike out today, first nice day in two weeks.
Just around the block to work though the "Seafoam" I put in the tank.
Anyway, I get home and can't roll back, the rear brake peddle is locked down and no play, and tire can't spin. Put her up on the jack and can't move it. So I proceed to crack open the bleeder, expecting a real pisser, but nope, just enough to release the piston and pads. I back her up in neutral, hit rear brake, and it happens again. So I crack the bleeder again, same thing happens. Take her out around the block again, and it's not as tight, but dragging. someone suggested to flush the brake fluid.
It's a 94 fxstc, real low mileage (160). The bike's new, and new to me. But that's another story.
Took the bike out today, first nice day in two weeks.
Just around the block to work though the "Seafoam" I put in the tank.
Anyway, I get home and can't roll back, the rear brake peddle is locked down and no play, and tire can't spin. Put her up on the jack and can't move it. So I proceed to crack open the bleeder, expecting a real pisser, but nope, just enough to release the piston and pads. I back her up in neutral, hit rear brake, and it happens again. So I crack the bleeder again, same thing happens. Take her out around the block again, and it's not as tight, but dragging. someone suggested to flush the brake fluid.
It's a 94 fxstc, real low mileage (160). The bike's new, and new to me. But that's another story.
#4
#6
Air would cause a spongy pedal, not a locked up brake.
It sounds like the valve in your master cylinder isn't allowing the fluid to flow back into the reservoir to release the line pressure when you take your foot off the brake. That would mean a rebuild on the master cylinder or a new one. I would think that the brake pedal would come back up though even with pressure in the line. Flushing all the brake fluid wouldn't be a bad idea especially if it's been sitting in there for 18 years.
The other possibility is that your calipers are sticking. It's not uncommon on calipers to get a rust ring inside the cylinder. Sometimes you can clean it up by running the piston in and out. Other times it's time for a caliper rebuild. Take the brakes off the bike and run the piston in and out with a c-clamp and the brake pedal.
If you try to run the piston in and out, make sure that the c-clamp is loose enough to allow the piston movement but tight enough so you don't pop the piston out of the cylinder. If you do that, you get to rebuild your caliper anyways.
It sounds like the valve in your master cylinder isn't allowing the fluid to flow back into the reservoir to release the line pressure when you take your foot off the brake. That would mean a rebuild on the master cylinder or a new one. I would think that the brake pedal would come back up though even with pressure in the line. Flushing all the brake fluid wouldn't be a bad idea especially if it's been sitting in there for 18 years.
The other possibility is that your calipers are sticking. It's not uncommon on calipers to get a rust ring inside the cylinder. Sometimes you can clean it up by running the piston in and out. Other times it's time for a caliper rebuild. Take the brakes off the bike and run the piston in and out with a c-clamp and the brake pedal.
If you try to run the piston in and out, make sure that the c-clamp is loose enough to allow the piston movement but tight enough so you don't pop the piston out of the cylinder. If you do that, you get to rebuild your caliper anyways.
#7
yes. What happened was a spongy brake pedal on the way home from work. So I pumped it and as I pumped it the brakes got tighter and tighter. I just made it home. After that, they stayed locked for a day or so and finally started to loosen enough for them to push the bike out of the garage and onto HD's trailer. The fixed it...no charge. But it was kind of a scary feeling having no rear brakes on the ride home.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
I don't know, if it were me, I think i would rebuild the caliper first. That and flush the fluids out of the lines. If the problem survives this, then look into the master cylinder.
I only say the caliper fist because if the piston is binding in one spot, it would be easy for it to stop the piston from retracting enough to lock the rotor.
I don't play when it comes to brakes. Go big so you can get home.
I only say the caliper fist because if the piston is binding in one spot, it would be easy for it to stop the piston from retracting enough to lock the rotor.
I don't play when it comes to brakes. Go big so you can get home.
#10