Bent Rim
#11
04-03-2011, 08:12 AM
Stellar HDF Member
I just started getting a wobble in the front wheel, especially 65 mph or greater. I took a closer look at my front wheel, inspecting the spokes and rim, and noticed a "dent" in the front rim. Dont know if the dent shows up in the pics, but a couple of questions:
-Will a dent in the rim cause wobble at certain speeds?
-Are dents like this fixable, or will I have to buy a new wheel?
Thanks.
-Will a dent in the rim cause wobble at certain speeds?
-Are dents like this fixable, or will I have to buy a new wheel?
Thanks.
My dealer provided an estimate (some woman hit my bike while it was innocently resting in a parking lot) and the dealer wouldn't replace the wheel without replacing the tube and tire (makes sense). I bought a used wheel and during that effort discovered that it is very easy to get one that doesn't match. In my case it was for the same model (FXST) but not the same sub-model and so it didn't have a chrome hub. Now I am going to have to pull my hub and put it in the wheel that I bought. The axle diameter, rim width, spoke finish, rim finish, hub width, hub finish, hub rotor mount holes, of course the diameter, and probably more stuff that I haven't thought of make a difference. Harley changes these from year to year and model to model like a woman changes shoes.
If you have a shop manual it tells you how to lace a wheel. You can probably buy a rim for $100 (new) and pull the wheel apart yourself and re-lace it then take it to someone to set up (for another $50 or so). If you can't get the tire off, figure $50 to remove and remount your tire. Total you do it yourself sorta cost $200. Keep in mind that a rim bent that badly could have damaged the side wall of your tire in the same incident.
While you're at it it wouldn't hurt to replace the wheel bearings if you have some mileage on them.
For buying from the dealer, it is cheaper to just buy a wheel than have them re-rim your wheel. From an indy it may be cheaper to re-rim if they are a good truer which is a dying art these days.
C#
Last edited by cwsharp; 04-03-2011 at 08:17 AM.
#12
04-03-2011, 08:52 AM
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Colorado
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Mine wasn't flat spotted that bad but it did cause a wobble. My front end and wheel are a lighter version than yours.
My dealer provided an estimate (some woman hit my bike while it was innocently resting in a parking lot) and the dealer wouldn't replace the wheel without replacing the tube and tire (makes sense). I bought a used wheel and during that effort discovered that it is very easy to get one that doesn't match. In my case it was for the same model (FXST) but not the same sub-model and so it didn't have a chrome hub. Now I am going to have to pull my hub and put it in the wheel that I bought. The axle diameter, rim width, spoke finish, rim finish, hub width, hub finish, hub rotor mount holes, of course the diameter, and probably more stuff that I haven't thought of make a difference. Harley changes these from year to year and model to model like a woman changes shoes.
If you have a shop manual it tells you how to lace a wheel. You can probably buy a rim for $100 (new) and pull the wheel apart yourself and re-lace it then take it to someone to set up (for another $50 or so). If you can't get the tire off, figure $50 to remove and remount your tire. Total you do it yourself sorta cost $200. Keep in mind that a rim bent that badly could have damaged the side wall of your tire in the same incident.
While you're at it it wouldn't hurt to replace the wheel bearings if you have some mileage on them.
For buying from the dealer, it is cheaper to just buy a wheel than have them re-rim your wheel. From an indy it may be cheaper to re-rim if they are a good truer which is a dying art these days.
C#
My dealer provided an estimate (some woman hit my bike while it was innocently resting in a parking lot) and the dealer wouldn't replace the wheel without replacing the tube and tire (makes sense). I bought a used wheel and during that effort discovered that it is very easy to get one that doesn't match. In my case it was for the same model (FXST) but not the same sub-model and so it didn't have a chrome hub. Now I am going to have to pull my hub and put it in the wheel that I bought. The axle diameter, rim width, spoke finish, rim finish, hub width, hub finish, hub rotor mount holes, of course the diameter, and probably more stuff that I haven't thought of make a difference. Harley changes these from year to year and model to model like a woman changes shoes.
If you have a shop manual it tells you how to lace a wheel. You can probably buy a rim for $100 (new) and pull the wheel apart yourself and re-lace it then take it to someone to set up (for another $50 or so). If you can't get the tire off, figure $50 to remove and remount your tire. Total you do it yourself sorta cost $200. Keep in mind that a rim bent that badly could have damaged the side wall of your tire in the same incident.
While you're at it it wouldn't hurt to replace the wheel bearings if you have some mileage on them.
For buying from the dealer, it is cheaper to just buy a wheel than have them re-rim your wheel. From an indy it may be cheaper to re-rim if they are a good truer which is a dying art these days.
C#
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