What possible reason could I have for not telling the whole true story? I don't lie, I am looking for information, why would I skew the results? That would be counterproductive, don't you think?

 

Thanks, I would like to check with the guys in Dunn. The person that is living in the house is the guy that actually owns it, he signed it over to the person who listed it. It is deeded to her but he is still on the hook with the mortgage company so the deed is worthless. The mortgage company doesn't care who is on the deed, they just care about the person that they loaned the money to to do all the renovations that were done. I might wind up getting it from the court; it is in foreclosure for the unpaid mortgage amount plus last year's taxes.

 

Sounds complicated. Good luck on picking it up from the court. Nice place in a quiet location.

Give Veteran's Cycles a call @ (910) 980-0400. Ask for William. They're open from Tuesday - Friday, 9-5, and Saturday, 9-2.

 

Okay thanks, is that the whole true story? Sheesh, it is the internets. Take care, James.

 

The tech wasn't putting out BS but the MoCo doesn't make gear drive cams or systems for the Twin Cam engines. He was just positioning to sell you the new "hybrid" cam drive kit to convert your spring loaded tensioners to hydraulic tensioners; still a chain system.

2003 still running the spring loaded cam chain tensioners; you need to check them for wear, chipping, corners broken off, etc. and replace if necessary. Like others have said, if crank runout is less than .003", you can replace with gear drives. The lower unit in the earlier models was pretty stout and I doubt you have any runout issues; probably in the .002"-.0025" range.

Having said that, unless you are planning any serious performance upgrades, you can replace the OEM tensioners. Much less likely to fail since the chain ahs been "polished" by previous miles. There are abotu a gazillion early models running chain tensioners with no issues.

Not saying the upgrade to hydraulic isn't a good idea becaus it is. Just saying that if funds are tight, there is another way to skin the cat.

At a minimum you need to open up the cam chest and check the tensioners for wear, replace them while you are in there. Also replace the inner cam bearings; upgrade to the Torrington B148s. Change the scavenge port o-ring; it has been upgraded to a viton oring that won't harden.

Good time to installl a set of Andrews TW26 cams!

 

One thing some people don't think about, is that even if the crank checks good today (below .003), it is always "subject to change" (without notice). Sounds like the dealer took the safe route.

Many survive just fine (as you did). But the risk is real.

I'd feel much more comfortable with that, than gear drive.

Disclaimer: I twisted a crank before and I've been around others who also have. It happens. I've seen it and lived it. (Not just read about it).



.

 

Buy these parts before tearing it down. You'll have everything you need, less down time and problem solved:

25284-08 hydraulic tensioner kit
24017-10 SE (B148) inner bearings
17045-99C cam service gasket kit (you won't use the inner bearings as you'll use the SE bearings)
25285-08 spacer kit
25533-99A cam gear retention kit

 

Everyone, thanks for all the information! I just love these internets.

 

If you order the 17045-99D, you get the steel (rebuildable) breathers too, rather than a bunch of gaskets you cant use with the plastic ones

 

Otay!