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Cam change in Fatboy question?

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  #11  
Old 01-18-2011, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by MCSarge
Have been reading some pretty good reviews of this cam in the 96 motor. On another forum they have a quite a few dyno sheets that are posted showing HP in the mid 90's and torque up to 105 ft lbs with a 2into1 exhaust, good air cleaner and the right tune. They have posted 6 or 8 dyno runs in different parts of the country on several different bikes so I tend to believe the numbers.

This is the cam I will be going with in my Night Train next month. If I can come close to those numbers I will be pretty satisfied for just a cam change. Good luck on your project and post up the Dyno sheet when you get it done please.
The 204s are a very underrated cam. There is 8* of advance ground into the cam profile which is the source of the choppy. The cams will require compression to make the numbers you cite above. The trick is to get the compression up high enough to optimize the power of the cams but low enough to avoid detonation. This will also depend on altitude and how hot it gets in your part of the country. Static CR of 9.6 is pretty safe but, if your locale can stand 9.8, that's better. I have run the SE204s in a 95" '05 Deuce (104TQ/94HP) in south Texas at 9.8 but had to pull them in the summer months because of detonation; the heat and summer formulated corn fuel is just too much. Timing can be retarded to eliminate the ping but by the time you take enough timing out, the motor becomes sluggish.

The tune and exhaust is important; needs a 2:1 and can't over emphasize the importance of the tune. Torque curve is better than what you will get wtih most other SE cams like the 211 or 251 that will put up better numbers but need more rpms to make the power. Decent on the upper end of the low range, strong in the midrange and decent in the lower end of the high range.

A .030" Cometic MLS head gasket is part of the combination to set proper sqush band. If the heads are pulled for the cam change, it would be a good idea to have some Singh grooves cut inot the chambers.

Of course the aftermarket has better offerings but if one wants to stick with MoCo stuff, the SE204 is not a bad choice.
 

Last edited by djl; 01-18-2011 at 09:35 AM.
  #12  
Old 01-18-2011, 09:35 AM
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  #13  
Old 01-18-2011, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by KumaRide
204's with a 4* key.
Advance key or not, watch the cranking compression. With 8*advance ground in to the profile and a fairly early intake close installed straight up, you should consider compression releases. That setup can result in some nasty heat soaked startups in the summer time; I have seen those shift a crank. While that is extreme, just points out what a wicked advance curve can do under the right circumstances. Compression releases will also extend battery and starter life.

Not saying a 4* advance gear is a bad idea; just saying be careful.
 
  #14  
Old 01-18-2011, 10:20 AM
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Agreed. Was not necessarily saying the 4 key is the way to go. Posted the vid because the OP was more interested in the lope, idle sound then performance.
 
  #15  
Old 01-18-2011, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by KumaRide
Agreed. Was not necessarily saying the 4 key is the way to go. Posted the vid because the OP was more interested in the lope, idle sound then performance.
It did sound good but I wish he would have recorded from the rear to get the full effect. I actually think there is more idle lope with the cam installled straight up.
 
  #16  
Old 01-18-2011, 01:41 PM
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The bsl 2n2's also help to hear each cylinder fire compared to a 2n1.
 
  #17  
Old 01-23-2011, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by fcsallan
If you are looking for that old Harley Lope, than you will never get what you want without destroying the performance of the bike, that is unless you ditch the FI and install a carb.
This statement is pure BS.
Drop in a set of 204 cams and you will have exactly the sound you are looking for.
Send out the heads and get major power improvements.
 
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