Chrome Front Lowers
#2
#3
I just replaced the lowers (sliders) and fork springs this past weekend on a ElectraGlide. New chrome lowers and lowering the front end.
The only really obstacle is setting the bushing and seals within the lowers. This was easily accomplished with a tool made from a 18" length of 1-1/2" PVC pipe (18" was necessary in order to extend out beyond the slider tube and allow you to drive the bushing/seal into place). The outside diamter of 2" PVC will not fit inside the FLH slider tube, and 1-1/2" would not fit over the fork tube. Easily solved by carefully cutting a 1/16" slot throughout the length (parallel w/ pipe) of 1-1/2" PVC. Cutting an 18" straight line can be tricky with a handheld jigsaw (a table saw w/ blade depth set is best), so I used several layers of blue masking tape to form a fence which the jigsaw base rode against. The PVC tool can now be effectively 'spread' (w/ screwdrivers) to fit around the fork tube and the 18" length extends away from the slider tube. Use a block of wood w/ rubber mallet to drive the bushing and seal (lube both w/ fork oil) up against the machined stop within the slider tube. Both easily drove into position. One thing, use the existing 2" steel washer up against the rubber seal (not to damage seal) and ensure correct placement, as one could easily install the seal backwards.
The other thing I observed is an excessive torque rating (IMHO) for the 6mm slider bolts. I used the minimal setting, and still felt it was a bit too much.
Hope I didn't confuse you too much.
Good luck.
The only really obstacle is setting the bushing and seals within the lowers. This was easily accomplished with a tool made from a 18" length of 1-1/2" PVC pipe (18" was necessary in order to extend out beyond the slider tube and allow you to drive the bushing/seal into place). The outside diamter of 2" PVC will not fit inside the FLH slider tube, and 1-1/2" would not fit over the fork tube. Easily solved by carefully cutting a 1/16" slot throughout the length (parallel w/ pipe) of 1-1/2" PVC. Cutting an 18" straight line can be tricky with a handheld jigsaw (a table saw w/ blade depth set is best), so I used several layers of blue masking tape to form a fence which the jigsaw base rode against. The PVC tool can now be effectively 'spread' (w/ screwdrivers) to fit around the fork tube and the 18" length extends away from the slider tube. Use a block of wood w/ rubber mallet to drive the bushing and seal (lube both w/ fork oil) up against the machined stop within the slider tube. Both easily drove into position. One thing, use the existing 2" steel washer up against the rubber seal (not to damage seal) and ensure correct placement, as one could easily install the seal backwards.
The other thing I observed is an excessive torque rating (IMHO) for the 6mm slider bolts. I used the minimal setting, and still felt it was a bit too much.
Hope I didn't confuse you too much.
Good luck.
#5
#6
#7
I used the same method for installing the fork seal as Nickrc3. I would also take extra precaution to wrap the cowbells as they scratch and dent super easy - this happened to me so I ended up having to replace them. If you don't feel comfortable pressing in the fork seals, you can talk a dealer into doing for a nominal charge (that was my backup plan) - they quoted me between $25-50.
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