+1 ... The Rogue system is helpful to some extent it may increase the life of your top end past say ..120K, but .. I am yet to find someone that goes through 120K without a 'bigger new jobs and maybe heads !!" . the bottoms of the MOCO live longer than their owners in many cases.

So I am not a nay sayer, it is a good system, but my point is, it is the equivalent of cleaning a room in your house, that you will never open, or use until you leave the house or die, or rebuild... yes.. it will make it clean, but .. !.

As for the Original thread poster, the post of using the 'return hose' is perfect if you insist, but you can just simply change oil , one more after 500 miles, and one more after 500 miles, congratulations.



Peace

 

In todays world of oil, dino oil can be mixed with synthetic and won't hurt a thing. I know guys that switch back and forth and have been doing it for years with no bad effects. Also seen more than a few guys on road trips have to add some dino oil to an engine already using synthetic and keep riding for thousands of miles.

The few times that I've pulled the crankcase plug to check for sumping (never found a problem with that), I've always gotten approx 4-7 oz of oil out of it. No big deal to me about leaving that in there. JMHO

 

lol me too.

 

I think I'm gonna get one of the scavenger systems. I hate it when I change the oil and filter, start the bike and let it run for a minute or so and then go to check the oil level in the tank, and I see cloudy oil even though I just put in clean oil.

I realize that it's probably not hurting anything because most of the oil is new and fresh, but it still bugs me.

Seems like it's kind of a **** poor design from Harley, there should be some way to get that sump oil out, just like when you change the oil on a car.

 

Im gonna try this, just got it. A lot cheaper
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/741-326
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/te...ge-system.html

 

In all actuality, how bad is the "contaminated" oil that is left behind vs any benefit gained by removing the final few ounces? In all of the engines I have had in the past 30 years I have never experienced any heavy failure caused by conventional oil changes... Maybe I'm pushing my luck?

 

I could see if I suspected metal contamination in the engine (eg. bearing failure), then I might consider flushing the entire system. But it still goes through the oil filter before it goes into the engine. So the diluted dirty oil will get cleaned up. Oil doesn't wear out, it just gets dirty.

Do those that are that **** about a few ounces of dirty oil replace their oil filter in between oil changes? How about taking oil samples to get tested for premature wear?

 

From what Im reading in this thread, its the acids in the oil which would not be caught in the filter. But, if its just a matter of using a $20 flush kit, or disconnecting the return line and flushing it, It does not seem like a big deal to flush a little oil.

 

I've done 4 oil changes on my bike with pulling the casing plug. It came loose very hard the first time. I used a small amount of thread tape to reinstall. No problems but, with all that being said, I didn't know there was a possibility of cracking the case so, I will not ever remove it again. I only got maybe 8 oz. out of it anyway.

 

The puck/scavenge total oil change system is just another way to get your money. How many of you do a total oil flush/change on your cars? Use a good grade dino or synthetic oil of your choice, change oil/filter regularly and at shorter intervals if you live in the southeast or southwest, keep the oil tank topped off between changes and ride.