That kit on an 88 makes it a 95". Still worth it. I would fork out the extra $ and get the cams done at the same time. Cheaper in the long run.

 

Agreed. The Stage 2 kit is just the addition of the cams, but still cheaper than the Stage 1 kit and the cams bought sperately.

Sounds like it'd be an extra hour or so on labor, since what they describe doing is all top-end and not opening the bottom at all, so they'd have to do a whole 'nother "open up this and take it all out".
But yea, I'd definitely do the cams at same time, since they'll be in the groove of taking things apart anyway.

 

Great deal, wouldbe well worth it to throw in the S&S 510 chain cams for $329.00 extra while they have it apart, the S&S cams have more overlap and duration and are the biggest cams you can run with stock heads and valve springs. I have them in both of my bikes now. I have friends with CVO 110 bikes and my 96" with the 510cams stays right with them.

My #'s are:
Road glide 87hp 99ft lbs
Xbones 84hp 96ft lbs

Both have the 510 cams with the SERT, 2-2 pipes and SE air cleaners, stock heads, intake and throttle body.

I could bring the hp #'s up some if I had a 2-1 exhaust but i like the sound of duals and the extra few hp aren't that noticable..

 

you'd save on adjustable pushrods because they'll already have the to end apart. If you put the cams in later, thats shelling out for 2 dyno runs. One for the big bore and then doing it again when you install the cams.

 

Maybe im not looking hard enough but what type of S&S 510 cams are you using for the bones? All the cams on their website say mostly 99-06 big twins... I cant really find any 510s for my bones and the cams that do work with 07 and up are expensive. Im checking out cams for sure now since they will have pretty much everything ready for them.

 

Jugs and pistons, a few gaskets,..... I wouldn't call that a huge bargain.
$600 worth of parts and $400 in labor. Not a bad deal but I wouldn't call it a steal.

(And I just bet that they sneak in a few more "costs" before you get out the door).


.

 

Hi,
Here is the link the 510C cams will drop right in, using the stock cam chains,

http://www.sscycle.com/product/cart....detail&p=20351

I used these on the bones as the new cam chain tensioner is supposed to last 100k miles, the one on the RoadGlide was the old style and was destroyed at 16k miles..

incase the link doesn't work

MSRP: $295.00 SKU: 33-5182

 

The dealer is not going to install/warranty aftermarket cams, so if you want cams, look at the SE211 or 259E. I agree with Faast Ed, not a bad deal but not a steal. As I said in a previous post, see if you can get them to sweeten the deal with cams at a discounted price.

Nothing against the 510 cams but they are not the "biggest" cams you can run with stock heads/valve springs. The stock beehives will handle up to .575" lift. Actually, a 2:1 pipe would probably hurt your HP numbers but might help the TQ number and broaden the TQ curve and perhaps move the curve left a tad.

 

The stock springs in HD won't work with that much lift and the stock compression ratio won't work with a 575" lift cam unless you only run it at 4k+ rpm. And will run mostly like a dog..

if you go over 520 valve lift on stock HD heads you can either wack a piston with too much duration or have coil bind with too much lift.
that is why SE heads and S&S heads add behive valve springs, they don't come stock. Also the higher spring rate sounds like rocks are banging around in the heads and you are more prone to have valve train failure with the high lift cams.

I ride 12k plus per year on my RG, and about 2-6k on my second bike X-bones, wouldn't want an high lift possibly uinreliable set up on my bike. Like anything else, you can do whant you want.

Also the stock intake runner on stock heads won't benefit from a higher valve lift, you would actually lose flow velocity.

Valve lift and Duration aren't the only things you want to look at, look at valve overlap and valve centerline angle.

Wider Centerline angle will create more cylinder pressure and give more low rpm cylinder power, but will hurt mid and top end
A closer centerline angle (lower #) has more valve overlap and bleeds cylinder pressure which moves the power upthe rpm scale, this also give the lopey idle and helps to lower idle temps on the engine as cylinder pressure is lower..
So with the 510 cams the power comes on at 2800rpm and up but the lower end power is right around the stock curve so you really don't lose anything on the lower end but gain quite a bit on the higher rpms, also the bike runs noticibly cooler in stop and go traffic..

 

Just had a thought not even that, just a couple of pistons / sets rings .... its a rebore isn't it?