I just installed a new rotor and pads on a 02 Fat Boy. When I tighten down the axle nut the rear wheel brake rotor binds on the outside brake pad to the point its pretty hard to turn with one hand. If I remove the rear pads and tighten the nut the wheel turns fine.
Just ride the thing or we got a problem!

 

Somethings wrong.....Did you replace the spacers in the proper place?

 

the spacers are installed just like they were. Wheel turns fine without the outside brake pad installed.

 

Do not ride it like this. It will boil the brake fluid and only get worst. Did you put back factory stuff? Note the rear rotor is thicker then front. These calipers are not floating and depend on being centered enough that the travel of the pistons against the pads is in the range of the bores. Since you say you got the two spacers correct and I assume you have the thin spacer on the caliper side under the caliper arm next to the wheel bearing this sounds OK. Note the forward slot of the caliper that fit over the key that is welded to the swing arm. If you look into the slot on the caliper you will notice a hole with a two step black rubber plug. It’s sort of a bumper that when the pads grab the rotor and try to spin the caliper around the bumper hits the key and so does not make a clink noise. If this bumper happens to get dislodged when you slid axle in while holding caliper in slot it will push the caliper around binding the rotor. I just did a break job on an 04 Softail and this bumper was old enough that it had broken in two at the larger diameter (the smaller section holds it in) and was hanging out. Once together its trapped but I was concerned that it would fall out before I got it back together or do what you describe that yours is doing. I grabbed a new one at the dealer. He carried it as a stock item and it was $1.98. Also I assume when you pushed the pistons back for the new pads that you took off the master cylinder cap. If it was close to being full it will prevent you being able to push the pistons back. One trick I have learned is I never push the pistons back before I pull old pads. After pulling old pads I put a slightly thinner block of wood in their place and push them out actually a slight amount more. Be careful and do not push them all the way out. Then I remove the wood and with a strip of cloth I give them the old shoe-shine treatment till they shine. Then I push them back in and then push on the brake pedal and watch them come out a little. Make sure they all come out together. That way I know they are all smooth and working together. If not the caliper needs rebuilt. As a final thought I always put new dot 5 (for mine) brake fluid in during a break job and actually ever few year if it does not need pads in between. Probably not so important with dot 5 but more so if it calls for 4 since that will absorb moisture.

 

I always open the bleeder on any caliper before I retract the pistons so I don't force all of the crappy contaminated fluid back into the system. Then I bleed the brakes when finished.

 

I think I would ask, Did you retract the pistons in the caliper? If you did then it shouldn't even be touching until you step on the brake pedal a few times.

 

clean the brake pistons

 

Still need help
Its not the rubber bumper its not there at all.
I took it for a test spin and the rotor and caliper got way hot.
The wheel spins fine with out pads installed.
I just installed a DNA mesh rotor and Custom Chrome Motor Factor pads(made by Fedoro).

 

So then the rotor and pads were changed together? If so, are you sure you have 1. the right one and 2. have it all installed correctly?

You also didn't tell us, did you compress the piston before putting it together?

I would also not ride it, even a little bit like that or your new rotor may be toast.

 

Rotor is not centered in the caliper...either the spacers are installed incorrectly or something is wrong with the rotor...reinstall stock rotor and see if it solves the problem.